174 
respects as advised for the preceding 
season. This Euphorbia is also very suit- 
able for growing on a back wall, in which 
position it looks well; but the flowers will 
not be so high-coloured as when they 
expand in close proximity to the glass. If 
planted out in such a situation the border 
should be limited in size, as if the roots 
are in too great a body of soil they are 
very liable'to decay when the plant is hard 
cut in, which it will require after blooming, 
at which time and until some growth has 
been made, the soil must be kept almost 
dry. Through treatment the opposite of 
this, when so situated, the plant often dies 
after being cut back ; otherwise, as also 
when grown in pots, it will last for years. 
Insrcts.—Both these Euphorbias are less 
subject to insects than are most stove plants, 
although thrips and spider will sometimes 
attack them ; syringing and fumigation are 
the best means for their destruction. 
Should mealy bug make its appearance, 
lay the plants on their sides, repeatedly 
syringe freely with tepid water and wash 
with insecticide in the winter when at rest ; 
dress similarly for brown scale in the 
dormant season, and use the sponge when 
the plants are growing, as at this time they 
would not bear an application of insecticide 
strong enough to kill the insects. White 
scale is so difficult to thoroughly eradicate 
when once it gets upon stove plants such 
as these, that are easily propagated and 
grown quickly, that where it exists it is 
better to start afresh with clean cuttings. 
EURYA LATIFOLIA VARIEGATA. 
This handsome plant is a variegated 
variety of the Japanese Eurya latifolia. 
It differs from the normal form inasmuch 
as half the surface of the leaves is white, 
and whilst young suffused with red, giving 
the plant a distinct and handsome appear- 
ance. In form the leaves are most like 
those of the Orange but somewhat smaller. 
It is a useful subject for greenhouse or 
conservatory decoration, its bright foliage 
livening up the darker hues of the green- 
leaved plants with which it is associated. 
It isa free grower, forming a moderately 
dense bushy pyramid; it strikes freely 
from cuttings made from the points of the 
shoots in a half-ripened condition, such as 
are usually in a suitable state about July, 
when the current season’s growth is par- 
tially solidified. Select those that are of 
medium strength, take them off with about 
three or four leaves, severing at a joint ; 
put three or four together in 6-inch pots 
filled with sand, keep moist, shaded, and 
covered with propagating glasses in a tem- 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 
EURYA LATIFOLIA. 
perature of 70°. They may be expected to 
root in about two months, when remove 
the glasses gradually, and place singly in 
3-inch pots in good fibrous peat with some 
sand added; keep moderately close until 
the roots begin to move freely in the soil, 
and afford for a few weeks a temperature 
of about 60° by night, with a rise in the 
day proportionate to the time of the year. 
Afterwards reduce it to 50°, the object 
being to just keep the young plants moving 
slowly through the winter, particularly in 
the formation of the additional roots neces- 
sary to support the top-growth that they 
will make in spring. Givea little air in the 
day when the weather will permit, and 
water as the soil seems to require it. To- 
wards April they will need moving into 
5-inch pots, and soil similar to that of the 
first potting should be used. 
This Eurya is only a little short of being 
hardy in the mildest parts of England, but 
it will be best to treat the young stock 
through this first summer to an inter- 
mediate temperature, say 55° to 60° in the 
night and 70° to 75° by day, with more air 
in the daytime than admitted to the occu- 
pants of the stove. Pinch out the points 
of the leading shoots to cause the lower 
eyes to break, with a view to the plants 
being sufficiently clothed down to the base. 
Shade slightly in the middle of the day, 
keep the atmosphere moderately moist, 
and syringe overhead at closing time in the 
afternoons. By the end of June pots 2 
inches larger will be required, and the soil 
now used should be more lumpy. If the 
plants do not branch out sufficiently they 
must again have the points of the strongest 
shoots pinched out. Continue to treat as 
before until the middle of September, when 
cease shading and syringing overhead, give 
more air and gradually reduce the tempera- 
ture to that suited for the generality of 
greenhouse plants—say 40° in the night— 
keeping them at this through the winter. 
Give pots 2 or 3 inches larger about April, 
and pinch out the points of the strongest 
shoots. Ordinary greenhouse treatment 
will be the best after the plants have 
reached this stage; continue to syringe 
overhead in the afternoons in bright 
weather, give plenty of air and light, and 
shade so far as found needful to prevent 
injury to the leaves, to which, in common 
with other variegated-leaved plants, it is 
more subject than are those that have their 
foliage wholly green. Beyond this nothing 
more will be required except additional 
pot-room as needed. When the plants 
have grown toa size of 6 or 7 feet, forming, 
as when well managed they do, handsome 
densely-clothed pyramids, they are very 
