HARDY PLANTS. 
the way usual with other Amaryllidaceous 
plants. The flowers, varying in colour 
from pure white to red and crimson, are 
very showy, the heads being in the case of 
some of the species as large as double 
Peonies; they are produced at various 
periods of the year according to the time 
the bulbs are started. 
Heemanthus are increased like Amaryllis 
by offsets which the strong bulbs produce : 
these should be detached from the old bulbs, 
say in spring at the time of potting before 
starting them into growth. Put the offsets 
singly into 3 or 4 inch pots according to 
the size they have attained ; drain well— 
free open soil is requisite, such as com- 
posed of equal parts peat and loam, with a 
moderate quantity of sand: insert the 
bulbs to about half their depth, pressing 
the soil firmly. If a little more warmth 
than that of an ordinary greenhouse can 
be given them, say 45° or a little over in 
the night, with a proportionate rise in the 
day, it will be an advantage. Give no 
more water than is necessary to keep the 
soil shghtly moist until growth has fairly 
commenced and they have made fresh 
roots, after which apply it more liberally ; 
let them have plenty of air in the daytime 
as they progress. Syringe overhead when 
the house is closed in the afternoons and 
continue to treat in this way through the 
summer until the plants show signs of 
going to rest, when withhold water, letting 
the soil get quite dry. Winter the bulbs 
in the pots in which they were grown in a 
temperature not lower than 45°, and about 
Apmil shake them out of the old soil and 
repot, giving increased room according to 
the size they have attained. Treat in 
every way as advised for the summer 
previous. Unless the offsets were a con- 
siderable size when taken from the parent 
plants, another season will elapse before 
they bloom. Again withhold water as 
soon as the plants show signs of going to 
rest, and winter as before. Re-pot in 
spring, and grow on as last year ; when 
the bloom stems appear do not let water 
lodge about them, and as they advance 
stand the plants where they will get plenty 
of light. As the flowers open keep the 
sun from them or their duration will be 
shorter ; after blooming treat as advised 
the previous summers. All that is subse- 
quently needful is to give more pot-room 
as the bulbs increase in size and numbers. 
A large example, consisting of eight or ten 
full-sized bulbs, each bearing a strong 
head of flowers, has a most distinct and 
effective appearance. When the specimens 
yet too large the bulbs may be separated 
before starting them into growth without 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 199 
affecting their flowering for the coming 
season. 
The following are sufficiently distinct to 
deserve a place :— 
Hi. albiflos. Flowers white. 
H. carinatus. Pink. 
Hi coccineus. Red. 
H, Pumilio. Pink. 
HI, sanguineus. Crimson. 
All the above are from the Cape of Good 
Hope. 
H. insignis. Crimson. 
H. magnificus. Scarlet. Africa. 
H. multiflorus. Scarlet. Sierra Leone. 
The three last-named require stove heat, 
but in other respects the treatment given 
for the cooler kinds will answer for them. 
Insects.—Red spider sometimes attacks 
the leaves, to remove which sponge and 
syringe. For aphides fumigate. 
From Natal. 
HARDENBERGIA. 
These are free-growing, free-flowering 
climbers, suitable for covering the roof or 
the supporting pillars in a greenhouse or 
conservatory. 
Their habit of growth is very like that 
of the Kennedyas, and the mode of pro- 
pagation, and the general treatment after- 
wards required, are like those which answer 
for Kennedyas, which see. 
The following are desirable kinds :— 
HI. andomariensis. 
HT, digitata. 
H. Lindleyana. 
HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 
That can be Grown in Pots for Greenhouse 
Decoration and Forcing. 
There are several hardy plants that form 
an important feature in the greenhouse in 
the winter and spring months, either forced 
or allowed to come on in a greenhouse 
temperature. The principal things to be 
observed with them is not to attempt to 
hurry them on too fast, and to let them 
have plenty of light, with a sufficiency of 
air during the time they are being forced, 
for on these conditions depend the appear- 
ance of the plants when in bloom. If too 
much hurried they are sure to be drawn 
up and look weak. A night temperature 
of 45° to 55° will in most cases be sufficient, 
with 8° or 10° more in the day tor such as 
are forced ; for those that are brought on 
without forcing an ordinary greenhouse 
temperature will suffice. In selecting 
plants for this purpose, those should be 
chosen that have been well grown in an 
open situation so that their growth has got 
well matured ; take them up with as little 
