224 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 
KALOSANTHES, 
flowering species, that bears large heads of 
flesh-coloured flowers. An autumn bloomer 
from Rio de Janeiro. 
J. coccinea. A winter or early spring 
flowering kind with scarlet flowers. From 
South America. 
J. lilacina. A pretty species which 
flowers at various times. 
J. splendens. A desirable free-flowering 
kind, that may be had in bloom at different 
times according to the warmth it is sub- 
jected to. 
Insecrs.—Aphides and red spider some- 
times affect these plants, but are not so 
partial to them as to many things ; syringe 
freely with clean water to remove the latter ; 
fumigate for the aphides. 
KALOSANTHES. 
These are evergreen greenhouse plants 
from the Cape of Good Hope, that bear 
freely their showy flowers which are pro- 
duced through the summer months. The 
plants are of compact branching habit and 
carry their flowers in large trusses on the 
extremities of the shoots. They are 
among the easiest to propagate of cul- 
tivated plants, as any bit of shoot if only 
laid on a damp surface in a suitable tem- 
perature will emit roots. They may be 
struck at any time during the spring or 
summer, but the spring is preferable as it 
gives time for the young plants to get their 
growth well hardened up before winter. 
About March select shoots of medium 
strength some 4 inches long, remove the 
leaves from the lower half and put five or 
six together in 6-inch pots filled with sand ; 
give a little water, but do not keep too wet 
or there will be danger of their rotting. 
Stand in a temperature of about 55°, but do 
not confine the cuttings under a propagating 
glass or frame as there is no necessity for 
keeping them from the air, their succulent 
nature being such that they will not flag 
so as to be harmed by full exposure to the 
air of the house or pit in which they are 
put to strike. They will root in a few 
weeks, after;which move them singly into 
3-inch pots, using good turfy, loam broken 
fine, with some sand and a little sifted 
rotten manure added. As soon as they 
begin to grow cut out the points, which 
will cause them to break several shoots ; 
stand them near the glass in a house or pit 
where they can receive ordinary greenhouse 
treatment in the matters of air and water, 
but do not shade as they require all the 
sun they can get. By the beginning of 
June they will need moving into 6-inch 
pots, in the same soil as before ; after this 
keep them indoors for five or six weeks, 
when stand them out in the full sun in the 
open air; give water regularly as it is 
needed. Remove them to a pit or frame 
before there is danger of frost, standing as 
near the glass as convenient. Winter at 
about 40° in the night; towards April again 
cut out the points of the shoots and give 
them a 4-inch shift. Kalosanthes are free 
rooters, and will bear liberal pot-room. 
Use the soil a little more lumpy, and drain 
the pots well. A shelf or stage in a green- 
house or pit where they can be close to the 
glass is now necessary to keep the growth 
short and sturdy, as if drawn they will be 
spoilt—to prevent this give plenty of air 
in the day. At midsummer turn them out- 
of-doors in a sunny position, standing the 
pots on a body of ashes, and giving water 
freely as the soil gets filled with roots. No- 
thing more is now required except to house 
them again early in September, wintering as 
before well up to the glass and applying no 
more water than will keep the soil in a 
slightly moist condition; this, combined 
with the exposure out-of-doors in the sun, 
is necessary to induce the strongest-growing 
varieties to flower fully. Keep a tem- 
perature similar to that advised for the 
previous winter ; if the foregoing directions 
are followed all the leading shoots will in 
spring set flower which will open in June; 
each shoot should have a small stick for 
support. The flowers will last three weeks 
or more, during which time they will be 
very effective in the greenhouse or conser- 
vatory. After blooming cut the shoots well 
back, and as soon as they have broken into 
growth move out-of-doors, where allow 
them to remain until the time for housing 
comes round. We do not advise that 
plants that have flowered as described 
should be potted the same season, but after 
wintering as before give pots 4 or 5 inches 
larger in April, and again stand them out 
in June; they will not bloom this summer, 
but by treating generally as in the year 
previous to their flowering (except that it 
will be better not to stop the shoots) they 
will make large specimens the ensuing 
season producing a sheet of flowers. After- 
wards in most cases it will be best to dis- 
card them and to depend on young stock 
to take their place. If large specimens for 
exhibition are required in the least time 
possible the plants must not be allowed to 
flower the summer they are in 10-inch 
pots, but must again have their shoots cut 
back in spring and be moved on into large 
pots as soon as they have again broken, 
tying the shoots well out so as to give them 
plenty of room. They may be flowered 
the second summer after the cuttings are 
struck, in the shape of small plants in 
