LILIUM. 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. ° PB i § 
will prolong their flowering. Young 
examples struck in the spring will usually 
be found most useful, consequently when 
the blooming is over no more need be kept 
than will suffice to furnish cuttings the 
ensuing spring, for which purpose they 
should be previously cut back and placed 
in heat so as to secure the requisite growth. 
It is a native of Brazil. 
There is a form of this Libonia with 
variegated foliage, in other ways not differ- 
ing from the green-leaved kind. 
Insects.—To keep down red spider 
syringe freely, for aphides fumigate with 
tobacco. 
LICUALA. 
A handsome genus of mostly low-growing 
stove Palins, that deserve to be extensively 
cultivated. 
Propagation and cultivation given under 
Palms, general details of culture. 
L. grandis. What the appearance of 
this magnificent species may turn out to 
be as it gets older we do not know, but 
in its early stages of growth it has no 
equal amongst the fan-leaved section of 
Palms. It is of stout, moderately close 
habit ; the leaves are fan-shaped, of a 
medium size, beautifully plaited, and nar- 
rowly lobed on the margin. From the 
South Sea Islands. 
L. horrida. A large fan-leaved species ; 
like the preceding the leaves are plaited, 
and are retained in a healthy condition on 
the plant, so as to give it a well-furnished 
appearance. From Java. 
LILIUM. 
In these we have one of the finest 
genus of all cultivated flowering plants, 
differing much in their appearance. Many 
of the species that thrive out-of-doors in 
favourable localities succeed better in pots, 
where, if treated as they require to be, the 
amount of flowers produced is much in 
excess of those obtainable in the open ait, 
under all but exceptionally favourable 
conditions of soil and climate. One of the 
essential matters in the cultivation of Lilies 
is never to disturb them when the roots 
are in an active condition. 
The ordinary means of increase is by 
offsets, which most of the kinds produce 
freely : these should be removed from 
established plants at the time of repotting, 
when the tops have died down after 
flowering. Never by any means defer the 
potting until the bulbs have begun to form 
new roots, which most of the species do a 
considerable time before top growth com- 
mences. As will be understood, the time 
for removing the offsets varies with the 
different species that go to rest at different 
times of the year, and must be regulated 
thereby. All that is necessary is to turn 
the plants out of the pots and separate the 
small offset bulbs from the large flowering 
ones, putting the small ones four or six 
together in pots proportionate to their size, 
being guided still further by the size the 
particular kind grows to; the pots in all 
cases should be well drained. Most of the 
sorts thrive in good rich turfy loam, to 
which is added a fifth part of well-decom- 
posed leaf-mould, some rotten manure, and 
sand ; the greater part do best when their 
bulbs are well covered with soil, by placing 
them about midway down in the pots, 
pressing the soil moderately firm above. 
‘They should then be stood away in a house 
or pit out of the reach of frost, on a slightly 
moist bottom so that the moisture in the 
soil will not get dried up, so as to require 
much water being given until the shoots 
appear above the surface ; when this 
occurs they ought to be immediately 
placed where they will get plenty of light, 
for if the shoots get at all drawn much 
harm will be done. After this give water 
to keep the soil in a sufficiently moist con- 
dition for the roots to act, but not too wet. 
During the early spring the best position 
for them is a pit or frame where the heads 
of the plants will be near the glass, and 
frost can be just excluded. As the shoots 
advance put a stick to each for support, 
and give water freely as the soil gets full 
of roots. When danger from frost is over, 
the plants are better out-of-doors ; if the 
pots can be plunged in a bed of ashes it 
will be better for the roots, and there will 
be less trouble in watering. Continue to 
supply them with water through the 
summer until the tops die down, when 
place them for a few weeks where the soil 
will be in a medium state as to moisture. 
It is well to do whatever potting is re- 
quired by all bulbs early enough in autumn, 
not deferring it until the roots begin to 
move, which, as already said, does much 
harm. Young plants such as have been 
one year removed from the flowering pots 
in the way advised, may be potted on 
without being disturbed further than by 
the removal of the loose soil and a portion 
of the top of the ball ; larger pots should 
be given when necessary, and they should 
be treated through the winter and ensuing 
summer as in the preceding. If all goes 
well the bulbs will this second summer 
attain size and strength sufficient to enable 
them to bloom the year following, after 
which treat as up to this point advised ; 
giving more pot-room when wanted, and 
