278 
as this tends to weaken the plants, and 
prevents the necessary growth for the sea- 
son following. The Phcenocoma suffers 
more from this treatment than most plants, 
consequent upon its late-flowering disposi- 
tion, since it naturally comes in later than 
most hardwooded subjects, and is often 
kept back for decorative or exhibition pur- 
poses long after the time that the flowers 
should have been removed and the plant 
making growth for the ensuing season. It 
is, like all others from the same latitude, 
a light-loving subject, that cannot endure 
at any season to be kept ina dark situa- 
tion, or where the atmosphere is too close. 
It is of quicker growth than some things it 
is nearly allied to; on the other hand it does 
not, as a rule, live so long, but it is a good 
grower, not so liable to go off suddenly as 
some of the occupants of this department. 
The plant will succeed in loam, in which 
soil some grow it, but we prefer good ordi- 
nary peat. 
Cuttings made of the points of the 
young moderately strong shoots, some 3 
inches in length, put in about the begin- 
ning of August, several together in 6-inch 
pots filled with sand, stood in an inter- 
mediate temperature, kept moderately but 
not too close, fairly moist and shaded, will 
root during the autumn, when remove the 
glasses, giving more air and _ keeping 
through the winter at about 50° in the 
night. As soon as shoot growth is moving 
pinch out the points. In March move 
singly into small pots filled with fine peat 
and sand, keeping up a growing atmo- 
sphere, with a little shade when the sun is 
bright, and the material on which the pots 
stand moistened daily. Place them ina 
light position and give air in the middle 
of the day. By the end of June move into 
3-inch pots ; use similar soil and treat as 
before up to the end of August, when cease 
shading and give more air. Winter at 
about 45° in the night, and keep the soil 
now a little drier ; in March move them 
into 6-inch pots, using soil as before, and 
again pinch out the points of all the 
strongest shoots. When they have begun to 
move freely give a little more air than dur- 
ing the previous summer, in other respects 
treat as before, except that the strongest 
shoots should now all be tied out in a 
horizontal position. Admit more air again 
as the autumn advances, and place them 
for the winter in a good situation near the 
glass, in a dry house where there will be 
no drip upon them nor any accumulation 
of moisture, otherwise they may lose their 
inside foliage near the base of the shoots, 
and be thereby much injured both in ap- 
pearance and reality. 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 
break back and fill up. 
A temperature of 
PHGNOCOMA. 
40° will now answer for them in every 
way ; they require a little more water at 
the root than most hardwooded species, as 
they are never completely at rest, but keep 
growing on slowly through the winter. 
Give them a 3-inch shift early in April, 
using good fibrous peat, lighter in texture 
than required for some plants; break it 
moderately fine, and use sand in sufficient 
quantity to keep the whole in good open 
condition. Shade in bright weather slightly 
and keep the atmosphere a little damper, 
but do not syringe this plant overhead at 
any time. Again bring the shoots in a 
horizontal position close down as low as. 
the rim of the pot will admit. This is 
essential with the Phcenocoma, as it is 
naturally inclined to grow erect, and if the 
shoots are not trained out while they are 
young, they will split off when the attempt 
is made to train them when they get older ; 
the points of the shoots will soon turn up, 
the weaker ones near the centre of the 
plant will gain strength, and the growth 
become equalised. 
Treat during the spring months simi- 
larly to other young hardwooded stock. 
Give slight shade when required through 
the summer up to the middle of August, 
after which it should be discontinued, and 
air may be left on all night, so long as 
there is nothing to fear from frost. Attend 
to them in training, by keeping any shoots 
that take the lead well down, and if there 
are any much stronger than the rest pinch 
out their points, which will cause them to 
Pot again in 
spring as advised for the preceding year, 
giving a 3 or 4 inch shift, according to the 
strength of the plants, and the condition 
the roots are found to be in. The soil will 
now do used in a little coarser state, but 
must be equally good as to its containing 
plenty of fibre, with sufficient sand, and 
the drainage must be ample and well 
secured by either a thin layer of sphagnum 
or pieces of turfy peat. The plants will 
this season make some flower, and it be- 
comes a question, which will be best 
answered by each grower, whether they 
are to be allowed to remain on, or be 
taken off and growth encouraged. If the 
object is to get the plants as large as can be 
in the least possible time, then they should 
not be allowed to flower ; but when there 
is a disposition to use them while young 
for decorative purposes, no harm will be 
done by letting the flowers open, providing 
they are not left on too long, and the 
plants are not injured by being crowded 
among other things. But if they do not 
show flower in good time, that is, so that 
it will open early in June, it should not be 
