RUSSELIA. 
President. Rose, shaded salmon. 
Safrano. Apricot. 
HYBRID PERPETUALS. 
Alfred Colomb. Carmine red. 
Annie Alexieff. Rose colour. 
Baroness Rothschild. Light pink. 
Beauty of Waltham. Rosy-crimson. 
Captain Christy. Salmon-flesh. 
Catherine Soupert. Rosy-peach. 
Centifolia rosea. Bright rose. 
Charles Lefebvre. Bright red. 
Dr. Andry. Bright red. 
Duchesse de Vallombrosa. Rosy-peach. 
Duke of Connaught. Bright crimson. 
Duke of Edinburgh. Crimson. 
Edouard Andre. 
Emily Laxton. Bright rose. 
Fisher Holmes. Bright scarlet. 
General Jacqueminot. Red. 
Henri Ledechaux. Carmine. 
Jules Margottin. Red. 
La France. Silvery-peach. 
La Rosvere. Deep maroon-crimson. 
Madame Lacharme. Pure white. 
Madame Thérese Levet. Rose colour. 
Mademoiselle Eugenie Verdier.  Rosy- 
salmon. 
Marie Baumann. Crimson-red. 
Marquise de Castellane. Rose colour. 
Pierre Notting. Deep red. 
Souvenir de Victor Verdier. 
Red. 
Bright red. 
Star of Waltham. Carmine. 
Victor Verdier. Rose colour. 
White Baroness. Pure white. 
The undermentioned are suitable for 
climbers :— 
Belle Lyonnaise. Lemon colour. 
Celine Forestier. Sulphur-yellow. 
Cheshunt Hybrid. Light carmine. 
Climbing Devoniensis. White. 
Desprez a& fleur jaune. Sulphur, red, 
and buff. 
Gloire de Bordeaux. Silvery-white and 
rose. 
Gloire de Dijon. Yellow, shaded with 
salmon. 
Jeanne d’ Arc. White. 
Lamarque. White. 
Madame Marie Lavelley. Rose. 
Madame Trifle. Lemon colour. 
Marechal Niel. Golden yellow. 
Ophirie. Copper and nankeen. 
Reine Olga de Wurtemberg. Bright red. 
MILDEW, which has already been noticed 
as the worst enemy of Roses grown under 
glass, must be continually sought for, and 
as soon as the least sign is seen of the 
young leaves puckering or curling, flowers 
of sulphur must be dusted on the affected 
plants. If the parasite is left unchecked 
for even a few days it spreads in all direc- 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 
307 
tions, causing the leaves to fall off with the 
inevitable weakening of the plants that 
follows. 
Insects.—Red spider and aphides are 
the insects that affect Roses; to keep the 
former down it is necessary that the plants 
should be syringed freely every day during 
the active growing season, and twice a 
week at least in winter, doing the work 
thoroughly by getting the water to the 
under side of the leaves as well as the 
upper surface. If the syringing is well 
and regularly done aphides seldom give 
much trouble ; but if they appear fumigate 
with tobacco moderately, repeating the 
application until the insects are destroyed. 
When Roses are used as roof-climbers in 
houses where other plants are grown, such 
as in conservatories, the syringing recom- 
mended must be regularly attended to; 
neglect of this is generally the cause of 
Roses doing indifferently when grown in 
this way. 
RUSSELIA. 
These are graceful-habited stove plants, 
and very distinct as regards general cha- 
racter. R. juncea is the best known and 
most usually cultivated species. It has 
slender, Rush-like branches, which droop 
in such a way as to give it at all timesa 
handsome appearance, enhanced by its 
scarlet tube-shaped flowers. Russelias 
root freely from cuttings made of small 
pieces of the shoots. If, in spring, these 
are inserted, five or six together, in 4-inch 
pots filled with sand, and put in a warm 
house or pit, shaded and moist, under a 
bell-glass, they will root in a month, after 
which shift them singly into 3-inch pots 
in fibrous loam with a little sand added. 
Place them in a light position in a tem- 
perature that will do for ordinary stove 
plants, give air in the daytime and main- 
tain a moderately, not too humid, atmo- 
sphere; little shade will be required, except 
in very bright weather. 
Plants of these Russelias are inclined to 
branch naturally, but it will be advisable, 
as soon as the growth is fairly commenced, 
to pinch out the points of the shoots ; this 
will promote a bushy condition. Syringe 
overhead daily through the summer; by 
the end of July shift them to 5 or 6 inch 
pots. Each plant should have a stick to 
support the centre shoot, the side branches 
being allowed to hang down naturally. 
Reduce the heat towards the end of 
September; a minimum temperature of 
60° will be sufficient in winter. In spring, | 
about March, give them 7 or 8 inch pots, 
and when fairly got into growth pinch the 
