TETRATHECA, 
Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 
329 
climber with comparatively thin stems 
that spring from a large, woody-looking 
mass, as broad and in appearance like the 
foot of an elephant, hence the name. 
Under cultivation the plant produces 
little from which it may be increased ; 
most, if not all, that exist in this country 
-are imported in a dormant state. 
It will thrive planted out, or in a mode- 
rately large pot, well drained, in loam or 
peat, to which a fair quantity of sand is 
added. Keep the soil dry when at rest, 
and water freely when growing. The 
flowers are yellow, produced in summer. 
Insects.—It should be syringed freely 
during the season of growth to keep down 
insects. 
TETRATHECA (TREMANDRA),. 
These pretty, free-flowering greenhouse 
plants are natives of New Holland and 
Van Dieman’s Land, where they exist as 
low-growing evergreen under-shrubs. They 
are quite distinct in their flowers, leaves, 
and general appearance from any other 
greenhouse subjects in ordinary cultivation; 
they are also widely different in appearance 
from each other in habit and duration of 
flowering. Both the smooth and the woolly 
leaved varieties of the Heath-leaved Tetra- 
theca, T. ericeefolia, commence flowering in 
the winter or early spring, and may be had 
even up to the end of May, but to have 
them so late as this they must be especially 
prepared by retarding the onening of their 
first blooms. Their innumerable pinkish- 
lilac flowers, different in character from 
anything else, make them very desirable 
for exhibition purposes, and equally so for 
conservatory decoration, where they will 
last long; but when used for this latter 
purpose they should be placed in a good 
light situation, and not overcrowded among 
other things that will prevent their re- 
ceiving all round the light and air necessary 
for their well-being. 
Tetrathecas strike freely from cuttings 
made of the points of the young shoots in 
a half-matured state ; these should, about 
the beginning of August, be put an inch 
apart in pots half filled with a mixture of 
sand and sifted peat, the remainder all 
sand, placed under a bell-glass, kept moist 
and shaded in moderate warmth. They 
will root during the autumn, when remove 
the glasses, and as soon as they begin to 
grow pinch out the points. It will be 
better to defer potting until spring ; keep 
them through the winter in a temperature 
of about 48°, close to the glass, with just 
enough water to keep the soil moist. To- 
wards the beginning of April move singly 
into small pots in soil composed of fine 
peat and sand ; they should be kept a little 
close until growth commences, shaded when 
the sun is bright, and stood on a moist 
bottom. Give a moderate amount of air in 
the middle of the day when the roots have 
got fairly into motion, and treat generally 
as with other hardwooded stock in a similar 
stage. By the middle of July move them 
into 3-inch pots, managing as before until 
the middle of September, when leave off 
shading and give more air. Winter in a 
temperature of about 45°, and in April 
move the young plants into 5 or 6 inch 
pots, again stopping the shoots ; give less 
air for a few weeks, with shade and a mode- 
rately moist atmosphere. As soon as root 
growth has commenced admit more air, 
which will require to be increased this 
season as the weather gets warmer, still 
shading when it is very bright, and syring- 
ing overhead at closing time in the after- 
noons ; be careful to see that they do not 
want for water at the roots, and keep the 
material on which the pots stand moist 
until the growing season is getting ad- 
vanced, when give more air and winter in 
a similar temperature to that advisea for 
the preceding. Towards the beginning of 
March shorten the shoots back to about 
half their length, they will then be in a fit 
condition for potting about the middle of 
April. Itis not advisable to shift them so 
early as some things, as their roots dq not 
get into an active state so soon as those of 
many plants of a similar character. If, 
when turned out of their pots, they are 
found to have plenty of roots, they will 
bear a 3-inch shift. Good fibrous peat, not 
broken too fine, with a moderate quantity 
of sand added, is the most suitable material 
to grow them in; in potting ram the new 
soil well down. Place the plants where 
they can be a little close for two or three 
weeks, and keep the material on which 
they stand damp by syringing in the even- 
ings, and also syringe them overhead. 
Shade slightly in bright weather, and dis- 
continue it as the sun declines in the after- 
noons, otherwise the growth will be soft 
and liable to the attacks of mildew. Train 
the strongest shoots out horizontally, bring- 
ing them well down to the rims of the pots. 
When the roots have got hold of the new 
soil give air freely, so as to induce stout 
growth. They are free rooters, yet we 
should not advise giving a second shift 
during the summer, as they winter better 
when the pots are filled with roots. 
If the plants have made their wonted 
progress by the end of June the young 
shoots will have extended considerably, and 
should have their points nipped out, which 
