BEGONIA 



THE BUI.B BOOK 



BEGONIA 



grow at an altitude of 11,000 to 

 13,000 feet, so that they may be 

 regarded almost as hardy jjlants, 

 well adapted for cultivation in our 

 temperate and fickle climate. It will 

 be noticed that with the exception of 

 the yellow-flowered 7>. Pearcei, the 

 other species have red, scarlet, or 

 crimson flowers ; and yet the result 

 of hybridising, crossing, or inter- 

 marrying one species with another 

 has been the production of progeny 

 showing many other shades of colour 

 such as pure white, crimson, scarlet, 

 pink, rose, yellow, orange, and in- 

 numerable intermediate shades. The 

 one colour lacking is blue, and it is 

 doubtful if ever such a colour will be 

 seen on a tuberous Begonia until 

 some purple- or blue-flowered parent 

 is discovered. Of the species men- 

 tioned, B. holiviensis (scarlet), 7>. 

 Pearcei (yellow), and B. Veitchi 

 ( orange - scarlet ) have been more 

 frequently used as parents than the 

 others, and it is obvious that the 

 beautiful yellow - flowered varieties 

 now in cultivation all show the 

 influence of the B. Pearcei blood in 

 their veins. When one compares the 

 small, drooping, four-petalled flowers 

 of the original parents with the huge 

 blossoms (both single and double) 

 now so well known, it seems scarcely 

 credible that such magnificent results 

 could have been achieved by the 

 gardener in a little over thirty years. 

 Culture. — Tuljerous Begonias are 

 plants that almost anyone can grow 

 to perfection, either in the open air or 

 under glass. Indeed, for the decora- 

 tion of the outdoor garden the tuber- 

 ous Begonia is in many places ousting 

 the ever-popular Zonal Pelargonium 

 from the flower-beds, and it is now to 

 be found during the summer months 

 in many cottage gardens. It is not 

 particular as to soil so long as this 

 has been deeply dug and liberally 



dressed with well - rotted manure. 

 For pot plants a compost of well- 

 matured loam, leaf-soil, and a little 

 silver sand will be found to give 

 excellent results — especially if a 

 little basic slag or some of the 

 proprietary manures have been 

 mixed with it. 



Starting the Tubers.— Any time 

 during February or March these 

 may be taken from their winter 

 quarters and placed in shallow boxes 

 on the surface of either coco-nut fibre, 

 leaf -soil, or indeed any good garden 

 compost, in a temperature of GO" to 

 65" F. The tubers should not be 

 placed too closely together, otherwise 

 when the fibrous roots develop they 

 are likely to become matted together. 

 It is then difficult to separate one 

 tuber from the other Avithout great 

 injury to 'the delicate roots. There 

 is no necessity to cover up the tul)crs 

 when starting them into growth, but 

 care should be taken to keep the 

 rounded surface underneath, as it 

 is from the hollow surface that tlie 

 new shoots sprout. Each day the 

 tubers and compost in which they 

 are placed should be sprinkled witli 

 tepid water, to encourage growtJi ; 

 and on no account should they be 

 allowed to dry up or shrivel. 



Potting.— As soon as the new 

 shoots are about 2 ins, long, the 

 plants are ready to be potted. The 

 size of the pots will depend upon the 

 size of the tubers. A safe general 

 rule to follow is to allow about 1 i ins. 

 all round between the outside of the 

 tuber and the inside of the pot. It 

 may therefore happen that pots 5, (i, 

 or 8 ins. in diameter may be used. 

 If they should become full of roots 

 in a short time, owing to vigorous 

 growth, it may be necessary to pot a 

 second time, using slightly larger pots. 

 The compost may consist of well- 

 matured loam, leaf-mould, and silver 



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