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than ignoring it until the end of the growing 
season. It is then a hard job to straighten out 
the badly tangled or twisted shoots, and the 
wind is likely to break them when they are very 
long. Never let a shoot grow upright for too 
long a period, and always avoid letting one get 
very far ahead of the others. If you do, the 
strongest or leading shoot will receive the greater 
quantity of the sap, and the plant, by throwing 
its strength to the top, will soon become nude at 
the base. 
For training roses, I prefer to use staples, as 
the plants make but few branches and are easily 
handled by this method; moreover, staples are 
easily removed, which is a convenience in the 
case of tender roses requiring winter protection, 
or where the plants, being subject to the heavy 
drip of a building, are taken down and buried, 
or otherwise covered. 
In the fall, give a mulch of six inches of good 
manure, which will not only serve as a winter 
protection, but will also yield plant food in the 
early spring when growth starts. In very dry 
locations, summer mulching also is desirable. 
Very tender roses, trained on the outside of a 
veranda or building, and subjected to a heavy 
drip in winter, need special attention. It is 
