30 GARDENING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS 
your cuttings only from plants that are in full vigor, 
and growing strongly. They should be taken from 
what is termed “ new growth,” that is the terminal 
portions of shoots, which have not yet become old 
and hard. The proper condition of the wood may 
be determined by the following test: if the stem 
is bent between the fingers it should snap (like a 
green bean) ; if it bends and doubles without break- 
ing it is either too old and will not readily root, 
or too soft and will be almost sure to wilt or rot. 
The cutting should be from two to four inches 
long, according to the plant and variety to be prop- 
agated. It should be cut off slant-wise, as this 
will assist in its being pushed firmly down into the 
cutting box. It may be cut either near, or between 
a joint or eye — with the exception of a few plants, 
noted later. The lower leaves should be taken off 
clean; those remaining, if large, shortened back, as 
shown in the illustration facing page 29. Then the 
plant will not be so likely to wilt. 
If the cuttings cannot be put in the propagating 
medium immediately after being made, keep them 
in the shade, and if necessary sprinkle to prevent 
wilting. I once obtained a batch of chrysanthemum 
cuttings from a brother florist who said that they 
were so badly wilted that they could never be rooted. 
I immersed them all in water for several hours, 
which revived them, and had the satisfaction of 
rooting almost every one. 
