68 THE FORCING GARDEN. 
I prefer seed to plants from cuttings for this winter 
work, because seedlings are rather more free of growth 
than cuttings. At intervals of three feet all along 
the middle of the bed place a_ hillock containing 
about half a bushel of fine maiden loam and decayed 
stable dung of about equal parts, and make each of 
them a little flat on the top similar to the bottom of a 
basin inverted. The next morning draw a circle with 
the finger on this flat about an inch deep, and place 
three seeds in each, and cover them up an inch or so. 
In the course of two days and two nights the seedlings 
should appear, and will do so if the bottom heat is 
good and brisk (which it should be at this time), and if 
the house is kept closed. 
There will be no danger of scalding if half of the 
bed is of leaves raked up last autumn, and kept open 
so as not to decay too much. These old leaves are 
fine moderators of the strong fermenting properties of 
fresh stable dung. As soon as the plants are up, shade 
them during a hot sun from its full influence for a 
week or two till the plants get strong, which shading 
must then be discontinued except on some very bright 
days. 
As soon as the roots of the plants begin to run out 
add more soil to each hillock, and finally fill up, making 
eight or nine inches in the depth of the soil over the 
whole bed. The compost as a rule should not be sifted, 
but merely chopped with the spade, mixing all the 
lumps and fine together. If more than two plants 
come up in each hillock, the third may be removed, but 
even one is enough for fruiting. As, however, some 
casualty may happen from various causes, it is best not 
