96 THE FORCING GARDEN. 
never be cut back, but merely thinned out, leaving the 
wood for flowering at full length. The same thing 
applies to such as Chénedolé, the Beauty of Billiard, 
Brennus, &ec., besides many of the newer sorts of strong 
growth. 
Pruning must not be deferred long after Roses are 
placed in a warmer atmosphere. The drainage must 
be good and free. Plunge the pots quite up to the 
rims. If they are dry, give water freely. If the heat 
is not too much, the bottom heat should never exceed 
60°. The fermenting material should be put into the 
pits several weeks before the Roses are introduced into 
the house, so that the heat may not be in advance, but 
slightly on the decline. If still at too high a pitch, 
set the pots on the top of the bed instead of plunging 
them. 
As the Roses begin to show signs of breaking leaf, 
give them some weak liquid manure. This may con- 
sist of one ounce of guano to one gallon of soft tepid 
water. This will induce a rapid development of the 
buds and give fine flowers. As the leaf and flower 
buds appear the aphides may appear also. No time 
should be lost when these show themselves, but fumi- 
gation must be resorted to at once. Syringing every 
day must also be attended to. This should be done 
every morning from nine to eleven o’clock. It helps 
the development of the leaf and bud. 
It will not be necessary during the months of- 
December, January, and February to give any air at all 
to the Roses. They will do well without it under this 
early forcing ; but it will be necessary to admit some 
at the top of the house after the middle of March to 
keep down the temperature, which will get too high 
