40 CANARY ISLANDS. 



air that we inhaled, seemed to pierce the lungs like a 

 stinging instrument. 



After haranguing with our guides for two tedious hours, 

 we recommenced our march over a way more steep than 

 ever, so much so that we were obliged to abandon our 

 mules, and perform the remainder of the distance on foot. 

 At half past two, we arrived at Alta Vista, where the ther- 

 mometer indicated a temperature of 47°, and the wind 

 blew directly from the north. From this place, we com- 

 menced the most difficult and the most arduous part of our 

 ascent, climbing over huge, precipitous crags of lava, 

 which were sharp and rasping to the fingers, and to the 

 soles of our shoes. At half past three, we reached La 

 Cueva del Yelo, a subterranean glacier, from which we 

 procured some excellent water. Here the wind blew 

 again from the south-west, and the mercury had risen to 

 48°. After two hours' climbing over a vast and almost 

 perpendicular tract of lava, attended with much toil and 

 danger, we reached La Rambleta, where there was for- 

 merly a small platform surrounding the Piton, or sugar- 

 loaf; but now, the debris thrown from the crater, have 

 almost obliterated its outline. On our way thither, those 

 of our company who had not the precaution to bring 

 with them gloves and a sufficient quantity of clothing, 

 were complaining bitterly of the cold, and of bloody fin- 

 gers. The wind still continued to blow from the south- 

 west, and the mercury had sunk to 41 o. At the rising of 

 the sun, we commenced climbing the sugar-loaf which is 

 covered with loose ashes and pumice, and so steep that it 

 would have been almost impracticable to ascend it, had 

 there not been an old current of lava to aid our footsteps. 

 At half past seven, we attained the summit of this cele- 

 brated mountain, where the wind blew a tremendous hur- 

 ricane from the south-west, and disenabled us to stand 

 without supporting ourselves by a lance, or clinging to the 

 walls of the crater. Most of the lower regions were inter- 

 cepted by a stratum of white clouds exactly resembling the 

 ocean, foaming with its utmost agitation. The sulphure- 

 ous stench and suffocating vapors impelled most of my 

 companions to descend immediately after reaching the brink 



