54 CANARY ISLANDS. 



trv), which signifies, in all Spanish provinces, a ground 

 destitute of vegetable mould, and covered with fragments 

 of lavas. 



About mid-day, I left Ycod, where I had a most mag- 

 nificent view of the Peak, and travelled about a league 

 through a succession of fertile vineyards to Garachico, the 

 port of which was destroyed in 1706, by an enormous 

 lateral eruption of the Peak. Before that event, this place 

 had the best harbor in the province, and was extensively 

 engaged in foreign commerce ; consequently, from that 

 circumstance, it was deprived of its opulence, and now is 

 inhabited principally by vine-dressers and fishermen, hav- 

 ing only 1861 inhabitants. 



At six o'clock in the evening, I arrived at Los Silos, 

 where I passed the night on the estate of Mr. John Colo- 

 gan, of Orotava. Here I enjoyed one of the most inviting 

 scenes in existence, w^here 



" The clusters clear, 

 Half through the foliage seen, or ardent flame, 

 Or shine transparent ; while perfection breathes 

 White o'er the turgent film the living dew, 

 As thus they brighten with exalted juice, 

 Touch'd into flavor by the mingling ray ; 

 The rural youth and virgins o'er the field. 

 Each fond for each to cull the autumnal prime, 

 Exulting rove, and speak the vintage nigh." 



The following morning I resumed my march and pur- 

 sued my rout over a small fertile plain, and at nine 

 o'clock, reached Buena Vista, a compact village, situated 

 near the western extremity of the island, and contained, 

 according to the last census, 1228 inhabitants. I soon 

 commenced ascending a lofty range of mountains which 

 encircle the Peak, and after climbing over a remarkably 

 steep and rocky path for more than two hours, I entered a 

 dense forest of cedars, resembling the Scottish fir, where 

 the rain began to pour down in torrents. I quickened 

 my pace, and about mid-day, came to an opening where 

 I took shelter in a wretched hovel constructed of loose 

 stones and straw, and contained neither windows, floor, or 

 chimney, nor furniture, except a few stones and earthen- 

 pots. Here I found a poor woman clothed in rags, and 

 four small children in an entire state of nudity. Shortly 



