68 THE TOCANTINS AND CAMETA. Cuap. IV, 
excursion was to a large shallow lagoon, choked up with aquatic 
plants, which lay about two miles across the campo. Ata place called 
Juquerapua we engaged a pilot to conduct us to Arroyos, and a few 
miles above the pilot’s house, arrived at a point where it was not 
possible to advance farther in our large canoe, on account of the rapids. 
September 16th.—Embarked at six a.m. in a large montaria which had 
been lent to us for this part of our voyage by Senhor Seixas, leaving the 
vigilinga anchored close to a rocky islet, named Santa Anna, to await 
our return. Isidoro was left in charge, and we were sorry to be obliged 
to leave behind also our mulatto José, who had fallen ill since leaving 
Baiao. We had then remaining only Alexandro, Manoel, and the pilot, 
a sturdy Tapuyo named Joaquim ; scarcely a sufficient crew to paddle 
against the strong currents. 
At ten a.m. we arrived at the first rapids, which are called Tapaiuna- 
quara. ‘The river, which was here about a mile wide, was choked up 
with rocks, a broken ridge passing completely across it. Between these 
confused piles of stone the currents were fearfully strong, and formed 
numerous eddies and whirlpools. We were obliged to get out occasion- 
ally and walk from rock to rock, whilst the men dragged the canoe over 
the obstacles. Beyond Tapaiunaqudara the stream became again broad 
and deep, and the river scenery was beautiful in the extreme. The 
water was clear, and of a bluish-green colour. On both sides of the 
stream stretched ranges of wooded hills, and in the middle picturesque 
islets rested on the smooth water, whose brilliant green woods fringed 
with palms formed charming bits of foreground to the perspective of 
sombre hills fading into grey in the distance. Joaquim pointed out to 
us grove after grove of Brazil-nut trees (Bertholletia excelsa) on the 
mainland. ‘This is one of the chief collecting grounds for this nut. 
The tree is one of the loftiest in the forest, towering far above its 
fellows ; we could see the woody fruits, large and round as, cannon-balls, 
dotted over the branches. The currents were very strong in some 
places, so that during the greater part of the way the men preferred to 
travel near the shore, and propel the boat by means of long poles. 
_ We arrived at Arroyos about four o’clock in the afternoon, after ten 
hours’ hard pull. The place consists simply of a few houses built on 
a high bank, and forms a station where canoe-men from the mining 
countries of the interior of Brazil stop to rest themselves, before or 
after surmounting the dreaded falls and rapids of Guaribas, situated a 
couple of miles farther up. We dined ashore, and in the evening again 
embarked to visit the falls. ‘The vigorous and successful way in which 
our men battled with the terrific currents excited our astonishment. 
The bed of the river, here about a mile wide, is strewn with blocks of 
various sizes, which lie in the most irregular manner, and between them 
rush currents of more or less rapidity. With an accurate knowledge of 
the place and skilful management, the falls can be approached in small 
canoes by threading in less dangerous channels. The main fall is about 
a quarter of a mile wide; we climbed to an elevation overlooking it, 
and had a good view of the cataract. A body of water rushes with 
terrific force down a steep slope, and boils up with deafening roar 
around the boulders which obstruct its course. The wildness of the 
