Cuap. IV. DEPARTURE FROM CAMETA. 83 
In the orange groves and other parts humming-birds were plentiful, 
but I did not notice more than three species. I saw a little pigmy 
belonging to the genus Phaethornis one day in the act of washing itself 
in a brook; it was perched ona thin branch, whose end was under 
water. It dipped itself, then fluttered its wings and pruned its feathers, 
and seemed thoroughly to enjoy itself alone in the shady nook which 
it had chosen—a place overshadowed by broad leaves of .ferns and 
Heliconiz. I thought, as I watched it, that there was no need for 
poets to invent elves and gnomes, whilst Nature furnishes us with such 
marvellous little sprites ready to hand. 
My return journey to Parad afforded many incidents characteristic of 
Amazonian travelling. I left Cameta on the 16th of July. My luggage 
was embarked in the morning in the Santa Rosa, a vessel of the kind 
called cuberta, or covered canoe. The cuberta is very much used on 
these rivers. It is not decked, but the sides forward are raised and 
arched over, so as to admit of cargo being piled high above the water- 
line. At the stern is a neat square cabin, also raised, and between the 
cabin and covered forepart is a narrow piece decked over, on which are 
placed the cooking arrangements. This is called the tombadilha or 
quarterdeck, and when the canoe is heavily laden it goes under water 
as the vessel heels over to the wind. There are two masts, rigged with 
fore and aft sails. The foremast has often, besides, a main and top 
sail. The forepart is planked over at the top, and on this raised deck 
the crew work the vessel, pulling it along, when there is no wind, by 
means of the long oars’already described. 
As I have just said, my luggage was embarked in the morning. I 
was informed that we should start with the ebb-tide in the afternoon ; 
so I thought I should have time to pay my respects to Dr. Angelo and 
other friends, whose extreme courtesy and goodness had made my 
residence at Cameta so agreeable. After dinner the guests, according 
to custom at the house of the Correias, walked into the cool verandah 
which overlooks the river; and there we saw the Santa Rosa, a mere 
speck in the offing miles away, tacking down river with a fine breeze. 
I was now in a fix, for it would be useless attempting to overtake the 
cuberta, and besides the sea ran too high for any montaria. I was then 
told that I ought to have been aboard hours before the time fixed for 
starting, because when a breeze springs up, vessels start before the tide 
turns ; the last hour of the flood not being very strong. All my precious 
collections, my clothes, and other necessaries were on board, and it was 
indispensable that I should be at Pard when the things were disem- 
barked. I tried to hire a montaria and men, but was told that it would 
be madness to cross the river ina small boat with this breeze. On 
going to Senhor Laroque, another of my Cametd friends, I was relieved 
of my embarrassment ; for I found there an English gentleman, Mr. 
Patchett of Pernambuco, who was visiting Parad and its neighbourhood 
on his way to England, and who, as he was going back to Parad in a 
small boat with four paddles, which would start at midnight, kindly 
offered me a passage. The evening from seven to ten o’clock was very 
stormy. About seven, the night became intensely dark, and a terrific 
