140 LOWER AMAZONS—OBYDOS TO MANAOS. Cnap. VI. 
from the pulp, or drying it in a systematic way ; the consequence is that, 
although naturally of good quality, it moulds before reaching the mer- 
chants’ stores, and does not fetch more than half the price of the same 
article grown in other parts of tropical America. The Amazons 
region is the original home of the principal species of chocolate tree, the 
Theobroma cacao ; and it grows in abundance in the forests of the 
upper river. The cultivated crop appears to be a precarious one ; little 
or no care, however, is bestowed on the trees, and even weeding is done 
very inefficiently. The plantations are generally old, and have been 
made on the low ground near the river, which renders them liable to 
inundation when this rises a few inches more than the average. There > 
is plenty of higher land quite suitable to the tree, but it is uncleared, 
and the want of labour and enterprise prevents the establishment of new 
plantations.* 
We passed the last houses in the Obydos district on the 20th, and 
the river scenery then resumed its wild and solitary character, which the 
scattered human habitations relieved, although in a small degree. We 
soon fell into a regular mode of life on board our little ark. Penna would 
not travel by night; indeed, our small crew, wearied by the day’s 
labour, required rest, and we very rarely had wind in the night. We 
used to moor the vessel to a tree, giving out plenty of cable, so as 
to sleep at a distance from the banks and free of mosquitoes, which, 
although swarming in the forest, rarely came many yards out into the 
river at this season of the year. The strong current, at a distance of thirty 
or forty yards from the coast, steadied the cuberta head to stream, and 
kept us from drifting ashore. We all slept in the open air, as the heat 
of the cabins was stifling in the early part of the night. Penna, Senhora 
Katita, and I, slung our hammocks in triangle between the mainmast 
and two stout poles fixed in the raised deck. A sheet was the only 
covering required, besides our regular clothing ; for the decrease of 
temperature at night on the Amazons is never so great as to be felt 
otherwise than as a delightful coolness, after the sweltering heat of the 
afternoons. We used to rise when the first gleam of dawn showed itself 
above the long dark line of forest. Our clothes and hammocks were then 
generally soaked with dew, but this was not felt to be an inconvenience. 
The Indian Manoel used to revive himself by a plunge in the river, 
under the bows of the vessel. It is the habit of all Indians, male and 
female, to bathe early in the morning ; they do it sometimes for warmth’s 
sake, the temperature of the water being often considerably higher than 
that of the air. Penna and I lolled in our hammocks, whilst Katita 
prepared the indispensable cup of strong coffee, which she did with 
wonderful celerity, smoking meanwhile her early morning pipe of 
tobacco. Liberal owners of river craft allow a cup of coffee sweetened 
* Next to indiarubber, cacao is the chief article of exportation from Para. The 
yield, however, varies greatly in different years. The price also fluctuates considerably, 
and does not follow the abundance or scarcity of the crop. The following valuation 
of exports of the article is taken from an official statement of exports, given me by 
Mr. Bailey, U.S. Consul at Para. In 1856, £99,247 75. 9d. ; 1857, £208,926; 1858, 
£133,013 8s. The quantity in weight exported was, in. 1856, 4,343,1361b.; in 1857, 
7,428,480 lb. 
