254 VOYAGE UP THE TAPAJOS. Cuap. IX. 
mentioned, the river bends from its northerly course beyond Altar do 
Chad. <A confused pile of rocks, on which many a vessel heavily laden 
with farinha has been wrecked, extends at the season of low water from 
the foot of a high bluff far into the stream. We were driven back on 
the first night (October 3rd) by a squall. The light terral was carrying 
us pleasantly round the spit, when a small black cloud which lay near 
the rising moon suddenly spread over the sky to the northward: the 
land breeze then ceased, and furious blasts began to blow across the 
river. We regained, with great difficulty, the shelter of the point. It 
blew almost a hurricane for two hours, during the whole of which time 
the sky over our heads was beautifully clear and starlit. Our shelter at 
first was not very secure, for the wind blew away the lashings of our 
sails, and caused our anchor to drag. Angelo Custodio, however, seized 
a rope which was attached to the foremast, and leapt ashore ; had he 
not done so, we should probably have been driven many miles backwards 
up the storm-tossed river. After the cloud had passed, the regular east 
wind began to blow, and our farther progress was effectually stopped 
for the night. The next day we all went ashore, after securing well 
the canoe, and slept from eleven o’clock till five, under the shades of 
trees. 
The distance between Point Cururti and Santarem was accomplish :d 
in three days, against the same difficulties of contrary and furious winds, 
shoaly water, and rocky coasts. I was thankful at length to be safely 
housed, with the whole of my collections, made under so many privations 
and perils, landed without the loss or damage of a specimen. The 
men, after unloading the canoe and delivering it to its owner, came to 
receive their payment. ‘They took part in goods and part in money, 
and after a good supper, on the night of the 7th October, shouldered 
their bundles and set off to walk by land some eighty miles to their 
homes. I was rather surprised at the good feeling exhibited by these 
poor Indians at parting. Angelo Custodio said that whenever I should 
wish to make another voyage up the Tapajos, he would be always ready 
to serve me as pilot. Alberto was undemonstrative, as usual; but 
Ricardo, with whom I had had many sharp quarrels, actually shed tears 
when he shook hands and bid me the final “‘ adeos.” 
