Cuap. XI. A MAMELUCO FARMER. 329 
narrow, but the expanded river inside is of vast dimensions ; it forms a 
lake (I may safely venture to say) several score miles in circumference. 
Although prepared for these surprises, I was quite taken aback in this 
case. We had been paddling all day along a monotonous shore, with 
the dreary Solimoens before us, here three to four miles broad, heavily 
rolling onward its muddy waters. We come to a little gap in the earthy 
banks, and find a dark, narrow inlet with a wall of forest overshadowing 
it on each side; we enter it, and at a distance of two or three hundred 
yards a glorious sheet of water bursts upon the view. The scenery of 
Cayambé is very picturesque. The land, on the two sides visible of 
the lake, is high and clothed with sombre woods, varied here and 
there with a white-washed house in the middle of a green patch of 
clearing, belonging to settlers. In striking contrast to these dark 
rolling forests is the vivid light-green and cheerful foliage of the woods 
on the numerous islets which rest like water gardens on the surface of 
the lake. Flocks of ducks, storks, and snow-white herons inhabit these 
islets, and a noise of parrots with the tingling chorus of Tamburt-pards 
was heard from them as we passed. This had a cheering effect, after 
the depressing stillness and absence of life in the woods on the margins 
of the main river. 
Cardozo and I with two Indians took a small canoe and crossed the 
lake on a visit to Senhor Gaspar José Rodriguez, a well-to-do farmer, 
and the principal resident of Cayambé. His eldest daughter, a home- 
loving, industrious girl, had married the Portuguese Miguel, my old 
travelling companion, a few days before we left Ega on these rambles. 
We had attended and danced at the wedding, and this present visit was 
in fulfilment of a promise to call on the family whenever we should be 
near Cayambé. Senhor Gaspar was one of those numerous half-caste 
proprietors, a few of whom I have had occasion to mention, who by 
their industrious, regular habits, good sense, and fair dealing, do credit 
to the class to which they belong. We have heard so much in England 
of the worthlessness of the half-caste population of Tropical America 
that it is a real pleasure to be able to bear witness that they are not 
wholly bad. It is, however, in retired couniry districts where I have 
chiefly mixed with them. Some of them, such as the friend of whom 
I am speaking, are, considering their defective education, as worthy 
men as can be found in any country. There is, however, it must be 
confessed, a considerable number of superlative lazy, tricky, and sensual 
characters amongst the half-castes, both in rural places and in the towns. 
I found the establishment of Senhor Gaspar similar to that of Joad 
Trinidade which I have before described, opposite to the mouth of the 
Maneira. It was situated on a high bank : the dwelling house was large 
and airy, but roughly built, and with unplastered mud-walls. There 
was a considerable number of out-houses, and in the rear, extensive 
orchards of fruit and coffee trees, with paths through them leading to 
the mandioca plantations. Senhor Miguel, with his wife, were absent 
at a new clearing which they had made for themselves in another part 
of the banks of the lake. The rest of the family were at home. 
We were received with frank hospitality by these shrewd and lively 
people. Senhor Gaspar had seven children, and had himself taught 
