28 THE COMPLETE GARDEN 



one-half of its height. Always cut the stem one-fourth to one-half 

 inch immediately above a strong bud that points out from the centre of 

 the plant. When a plant has been pruned the shoots should be 

 left as nearly as possible equi-distant from each other and arranged 

 around the plant, so that it presents a well-balanced appearance on all 

 sides with an uncrowded centre. With some hybrid perpetuals and 

 climbers, if considerable length of stem is cut with the flowers, the 

 plants can be induced to make some autumn bloom. Seeds should 

 never be permitted to ripen on rose bushes, as the effect of this is 

 extremely weakening to the plant. 



When pruning hybrid perpetual roses remove branches that cross, 

 and all weak wood also. Cut back strong canes to six buds, the top 

 bud pointing outward. For a big outdoor display leave two-thirds 

 of the length of four to seven canes. Sometimes it is feasible to cut 

 away part of the tops in autumn so that the fibrous roots will not be 

 loosened or broken by the force of winter winds swaying the plants. 



Hybrid teas and teas must be cut to the surface of the soil, if neces- 

 sary, in order to cut to live wood. However, as much or more wood 

 should be left as on hybrid perpetuals, if possible. Weak growers 

 should be cut back farther than strong growers. 



Rugosas, bourbons, chinas, austrian briers, ramblers, and wich- 

 uraianas need but little pruning. Thin out and cut back only a few 

 inches of the stems. Remove wood to the base of the plant as it be- 

 comes old. 



Climbing and pillar roses need only one-third to one-fifth of the wood 

 removed. All old wood should be removed about once in three years. 

 In autumn any unusually long canes should be cut back slightly and 

 tied up. 



When rose blooms are cut from the plant the finest and largest 

 blooms follow if only one bud is left to the branch. 



