AU 
elassed under two different heads, namely, Summer and 
Winter propagation, and in both eases the success is about 
equal, thus giving us an extended season for this all im- 
portant operation that the devotees of other systems 
cannot enjoy, as the budding and grafting methods can- 
not be done successfully more than two months out of 
the entire season in the climates it is most advocated. 
The system of propagation so successful with commercial 
florists is not practical for ladies or amateursin the South 
who only raise a limited number of plants for their own 
enjoyment, and a method more suitable to the require- 
ments of these parties we will hereafter more particularly 
treat. Winter propagation, as generally done in most 
commercial places, is carried on in the following man- 
ner: The first act of importance is the proper selection 
of the cuttings. The rule that applies to soft wooded 
plants, such as Fuchsias and Geraniums, that is, that the 
young shoots should be in a condition to snap and break 
rather than bend, to make the best cuttings, does not 
apply to Roses. The young shoot of the Rose is what is 
to be used, but it must be hard and woody; for example, 
when a Rosebud is developed enough to cut, the shoot on 
which it grows is in proper condition for cuttings. Each 
leaf of the shoot with its bud at the axil, and two or three 
inches of stem, makes a cutting that is called a one-eyed 
cutting. They are simply made by making one rather 
slanting cut between the joints, or about a quarter of an 
inch above the eye. About one-third of the leaf is cut 
off, mainly to admit of more cuttings being put in the 
cutting bench. If by any reason the leaf is taken off, a 
Rose cutting in this condition wiJl. never make a good 
plant; or if from any cause the leaf drops off while the 
cutting is in the process of rooting, not one in ten will 
make a satisfactory plant. A popular error in the mak- 
