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flower at all. Select only the strongest shoots; leave 
only one bud on the end of each shoot; keep an eye on 
them occasionally, as little buds will keep coming lower 
down the shoot that must be removed. With this treat- 
ment, if large flowering varieties are selected, there will 
be no trouble in having blooms from seven to ten inches 
across, and a plant grown in this way with only a dozen 
blooms on it, is more showy and more attractive in every 
way than six of the best varieties you can secure grown, 
or rather let grow, in their own spontaneous way. Dur- 
ing the period the buds are swelling give them plenty of 
liquid manure, but as soon as the blooms begin to expand, 
give them clear water. After the blooms are fully ex- 
panded, if shaded from bright sun they will last a much 
longer period. The culture in pots can be carried on 
exactly as the foregoing rules state; the same applies to 
both pot and open ground culture. When grown in pots 
they will have to be shifted into larger pots from time to 
time, as the growth of the plant demands it, and must be 
potted into the pots they are intended to bloom in not 
later than the first week in July, and not afterwards dis- 
turbed at the roots. Keep the pots plunged or sunk in 
the ground up to the rim of the pot, as this keeps them 
from becoming dry so rapidly, and greatly adds to the 
health of the plant, as when grown in pots they are more 
liable to suffer from want of water, and consequently 
need more care than if they were planted in the open 
ground. 
POTTING. 
When the plants are grown in the ground all the Sum- 
mer and taken up and potted in the Fall for house or 
conservatory decoration, the transferring of them into 
pots is a critical period. This is best accomplished by 
the middle of September or October Ist, if the weather is 
a 
