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the plant for the next season, and can be easily propa- 
gated any time through tne Winter months. January, 
February and March are best for this operation. When 
you cut back the stems, if grown in pots, don’t remove 
the stakes, or if you do be careful to fill up the holes they 
were in with soil, as the water would pass through the 
holes and the plant might perish for want of it. Liquid 
manure may now be given at intervals again, so as to 
induce them to throw up good healthy cuttings. Where 
extra fine plants are desired, thin out the cuttings as 
they start from the pot or surface of the soil around the 
base of the plant. This gives you less of them, but they 
will be much finer and stronger, and will ultimately 
make the best plants. The young cuttings will root 
freely in a pit or greenhouse, or in an improvised frame 
made with a window sash, as recommended for Roses, if 
either of the foregoing are notat hand. They need shad- 
ing from bright sunshine until they form roots, and must 
never be allowed to suffer from dryness of the atmos- 
phere or the material they are planted in. It is not 
necessary to have pure sand for the propagation of the 
Chrysanthemum; about one inch of sand en top of any 
ordinary compost of soil will suit them admirably. As 
soon as rooted put into small pots, and gradually into 
larger ones as required. South of this point they may 
be planted out in the garden where required as soon as 
they are sufficiently rooted in the cutting bed. Young 
plants raised this way every year are superior to old 
plants kept over. Try one old plant and a young one 
side by side one season, and thereafter you will never 
keep an old Chrysanthemum a second year, painful as 
it may be to see old age thus cast aside to make room for 
@ younger and more vigorous generation. If the old 
plants should by any means be kept over to flower the 
