220 



PHILIPPINE RESINS, GUMS, AND OILS 



shade to various combinations without being obtrusive. It is 

 therefore valuable as a so-called fixing agent. It is used with 

 otto of roses, jasmine, cassia, fine musk and labdanum. For 

 cheaper qualities of patchouli perfumes, benzylacetate is a very 

 good material; it aids in dissipating the severe patchouli odor 

 and for this reason is frequently utilized. With very cheap ar- 

 ticles, oil of cloves and also artificial musk are employed. The 

 scent is used with good results to combat the frequently very 

 obtrusive odor of perspiration, completely suppressing it. Mann 

 says: 



Besides patchouli perfumes, patchouli toilet water also is used. This is 

 especially popular with the harem ladies of Turkish and Arabic Pashas, 

 who pay enormous prices for fine qualities. These toilet waters are 

 worked with infusion of jasmine, but there are also some to be found in 

 trade containing menthol, which gives an odd shade, and is very well 

 liked. Otto of roses also is added and so is some fine kananga oil, all in 

 combination with the finest patchouli oil, thus preventing its domination. 



Askinson * gives the following formulas for patchouli per- 

 fumes : 



Essence of patchouli 



Oil of patchouly - ounces... 1^ 



Oil of rose do i 



Alcohol ■■ quarts.... 5 



Extract of patchouli 



Extract of orange flower quart.... 1 



Oil of patchouly ounces... Ih 



Oil of rose grains... 1.50 



Alcohol gallon.... 1 



Patchouli powder 



Patchouly herb pounds... 



Oil of patchouly grains... 



Musk do 



The constants of patchouli oil obtained from different coun- 

 tries vary considerably. This is shown by the figures in Table 

 35 which are quoted by Parry. f 



Table 35. — Constants of patchouli oil. 



2 



30 

 1.5 



Constants. 



Java plants. 



Singapore 

 plants. 



Specific gravity 



Optical rotation 



! Initial boiling point 



I Distils between 250°— 270°. 



0.922 at 25° 0.949 at 25° 



—16° 10' ' —58° 24' 



130° I 230° 



50 per cent — - 60 percent. 



* Askinson, G. W., Perfumes and cosmetics, (1915). 



t Parry, E. J., The chemistry of essential oils and artificial perfumes, 

 (1908). 



