:::::::::^s TWO BIRD -LOVERS IN MEXICO ^Sc""":: 



our former camj3ing-places and resting during the heat 

 of the day. By twihght we made Tonila, the halfway 

 village, nestling at the very foot of the mountain of 

 fire. The usual J7esta was in full swing', for which we 

 were glad, as it ensured an abundauce of snow ice- 

 cream. This we enjoyed all the more when we learned 

 that the snow was brought by Mexicans in sacks from 

 the lofty frozen summit of the fire mountain's dead 

 sister peak. 



The little plaza Avas a weird sight that night. The 

 wide-open doors of the dim church revealed the 

 figures of kneeling Avomen and children. Outside, the 

 flickering light of a multitude of bark-torches flared 

 unsteadily, throwing lights and shadows among the 

 crowd of Mexicans. Now and then an unearthly glow 

 fell upon all and then died out — the eternal torch 

 of the overhanging volcano. The Mexicans bought 

 pulque and dulces and listened to the pitiful little 

 band. Once, at a more flourishing period in the an- 

 nals of Tonila, the natives had erected an elaborate 

 and gaudy band-stand, which was now falling into 

 ruin. Though their numbers had lessened and their 

 pesos dwindled to an all-pervading poverty, yet their 

 love of music was no whit less. In the centre of the 

 dilapidated platform stood a lonesome little group of 

 four. On the floor was a low box. On its centre a 

 candle. On each side of the dim light was a piece of 

 tattered music. With two worn-out violins, a guitar, 



•»4 260 #* 



