28 The Naturalist in Nicaragua 
chant some Spanish boat-song, is one of the things that 
linger in the memory of the traveller up the San Juan. Our 
boatmen paddled and poled until eleven at night, when we 
reached Machuca, a settlement consisting of a single house, 
just below the rapids of the same name, seventy-seven miles 
above Greytown. 
We breakfasted at Machuca before starting next morning, 
and I walked up round the rapids and met the canoe above 
them. About five o’clock, after paddling all day, we came 
in sight of Castillo, where there is an old ruined Spanish fort. 
perched on the top of a hill overlooking the little town, which 
lies along the foot of the steep hill; hemmed in between it 
and the river, so that there is only room for one narrow street. 
It was near Castillo that Nelson lost his eye. He took the 
fort by landing about half a mile lower down the river, and 
dragging his guns round to a hill behind it by which it was 
commanded. This hill is now cleared of timber and covered 
with grass, supporting a few cows and a great many goats. 
In front of the town run the rapids of Castillo, which are 
difficult to ascend, and as there is no road round them 
excepting through the town of Castillo, advantage has been 
taken of the situation to fix the custom-house there, where 
are collected the duties on all articles going up to the interior. 
The first view of Castillo when coming up the river is a fine 
one. The fort-crowned hill and the little town clinging to 
its foot form the centre of the picture. The clear, sparkling, 
dancing rapids on one side contrast with the still, dark 
forest on the other, whilst the whole is relieved by the bright 
green grassy hills in the background. This view is the only 
pleasant recollection I have carried away of the place. The 
single street is narrow, dirty, and rugged, and when the 
shades of evening begin to creep up, swarms of mosquitoes 
issue forth to buzz and bite. 
I here made the acquaintance of Colonel M‘Crae, who was 
largely concerned in the india-rubber trade. He afterwards 
distinguished himself during the revolutionary outbreak of 
1869. He collected the rubber men and came to the assist- 
ance of the government, helping greatly to put down the 
insurrection. Originally a British subject, but now a 
naturalised Nicaraguan, he has filled with great credit for 
some time the post of deputy-governor of Greytown, and I 
