278 



BOSA. 



planted in Rose-gardens or Rosa- j 

 riums, in which each kind of Rose I 

 is contrived to fill a separate bed, j 

 and these beds are arranged so as to 

 form a regtdar figure like a geome- 

 tric flower-garden. Pyramids or 

 pillars of Roses are formed by 

 twining the climbing kinds against 

 frame-work ; or they may be trained 

 over arcades, or so as to form 

 baskets. The Rose is generally pro- 

 pagated by budding or grafting the 

 finer kinds on the common Briar, or 

 by layers. New varieties are also 

 raised from seed ; and the dwarf 

 kinds are propagated by cuttings, 

 most of the leaves of which should 

 be left on (%Qefig. 46). Roses should 

 be generally planted in autumn ; 

 but some of the more tender Chi- 

 nese and ]\Iusk Roses may be planted 

 in spring. A pit should be dug 

 about two feet square every way, 

 and half filled with very rotten 

 manure or vegetable mould mixed 

 with an equal portion of pit-sand ; 

 or if the soil be naturally sandy, 

 with equal parts of sand and loam. 

 Every fifth or sixth year the Roses 

 should be taken up, their roots 

 shortened, and replanted in fresh 

 soil, the old soil being removed ; and 

 every year, in March, about half a 

 barrowful of rotten manure should 

 be laid on the surface of the ground, 

 round the stem of the tree, and 

 spread out so as to cover the roots ; 

 the unpleasant appearance of the 

 manure being concealed by covering 

 it with turf or stones. It must be 

 observed, that the manure given 

 to Rose trees should always be 

 thoroughly decayed, and does best 

 laid on the surface, as when the 

 earth is manured too much and the 

 manure is dug in, it is very apt to 

 make the trees produce more leaves 

 than roses, and the roses have 

 very often a green centre. Brennus, 

 Madame Hardy, Charles Louis, and 



the Great Western, all very fine 

 Roses, are all apt to produce 

 green leaves in the centre of the 

 flower, when manured with un- 

 decayed stable manure. The pru- 

 ning of Roses is a subject on which 

 there are many different opinions, 

 and Roses are generally cut in every 

 year in October or March, so as not 

 to leave more than three or four 

 buds on each shoot. An opinion, 

 however, appears to be gaining 

 ground among gardeners, that this 

 pruning has been carried too far, 

 and that many kinds, particularly 

 all the climbing Roses, ought not to 

 be pruned at all. Roses are so 

 easily forced, that, with very little 

 trouble, they may be had in flower 

 every month in the year. For in- 

 stance, some Moss Roses may be 

 taken up as soon as they have done 

 flowering, and having been put into 

 pots and pruned, they may be kept 

 in a shady situation in the open air 

 till wanted for forcing. Those that 

 are wanted to blossom at Christmas, 

 should be plunged into a hotbed, or 

 put into a hothouse the 1st of Octo- 

 ber ; those put into the hothouse in 

 November will flower in January 

 and February ; and so on, always 

 calculating that the plants will 

 flower about two months after they 

 are placed in the hothouse or frame. 

 During the forcing they should be 

 abundantly supplied with water of 

 the same temperature as the house 

 in which they grow ; and the heat 

 they are kept in should never be 

 less than 60° at night. The China 

 Rose may be made to flower all the 

 winter by keeping in a greenhouse 

 at 50°, and having pinched off all 

 its flower-buds in summer and 

 autumn. 



The insects that attack Rose trees 

 are very numerous. Perhaps the 

 most troublesome are the Aphides 

 (see A'pHis), which cover the tender 



