WALI5. 



334 



very rich soil, but not freslily 

 manured. The remains of Celery 

 trenches used the previous year, or 

 part of the ground under an old 

 hotbed, -will suit these flov/ers ex- 

 ceedingly well ; taking care to mix 

 a little sand with the soil, if it be 

 at all loamy, in order to lighten 

 it. As the varieties can never be 

 depended upon for coming true from 

 seed, the best way to preserve any 

 that are very rich in colour, or very 

 double, is to make cuttings of them 

 in May. These cuttings should be 

 from shoots of the current year, and 

 they should be about three inches 

 long. They should be cut off care- 

 fully, and the end should be cut 

 smooth at a joint yviih a sharp knife. 

 The leaves should then be cut off 

 close to the stem, for about half the 

 length of the cuttings ; and they 

 should be put into pots filled with 

 sandy loam, and vegetable mould, 

 about four inches apaii;, and three 

 in a pot. They should be sprinkled 

 with water three times a-day, till 

 they have taken root vvhich will be 

 known by theii' beginning to grow. 

 In many cases, the cuttings are 

 merely put into the open garden ; 

 choosing a shady place, and mixing 

 a little sand with the mould, when 

 the ground is dug over, before 

 planting them. C. mutdbilis is a 

 half-shrubby evergreen, Avith dark- 

 purple, yellow, and lilac flowers, 

 and it requires a light rich soil. 

 C. alpinas is a dwarf plant, with 

 small yellow flowers, and is well 

 adapted for rockwork. The Stocks 

 which were formerly considered to 

 belong to this genus are now re- 

 moved to Maithlola. Both Stocks 

 and Wallflowers are frequently 

 called Gilliflowers, said to be a 

 corruption of girojlee, or perhaps of 

 jolies fleurs. 



Walls for gardens are either 

 used as boundary fences, and at the 



I same time for the purpose of train- 

 ing plants on, or they are erected in 

 I gardens for the latter purpose only. 

 I They may be formed of (.lifferent 

 I materials, according to those that 

 j are most abundant in any given 

 locality ; but the best of all walls 

 for garden purposes are those which 

 are built of brick. Stone walls are 

 durable and good ; but the stones 

 being much larger than bricks, the 

 joints between them are too far 

 apart for the purpose of neat train- 

 ing. Mud or earth walls, when 

 properly built, with a coping sufii- 

 cient to throw off the rain on every 

 side, are dry, warm, and very con- 

 genial to plants, but from the fra- 

 gile nature of the mud, they are not 

 well adapted for training on. These 

 two last kinds of walls should, 

 therefore, be covered with wire or 

 wooden trellis-work, to which the 

 plants may be tied. Walls made of 

 boards are very good, where they are 

 not required to be high ; and where 

 the boards are soaked with tar, or 

 coated over -with pitch, and placed 

 on a footing of brickwork, stone, or 

 oak plank, they will last many 

 years. Shelters, as substitutes for 

 walls, are formed of panels of reeds 

 covered with trellis-work ; or some- 

 times in Russia with wicker-work, 

 the interstices being caulked with 

 moss ; and both these kinds of sub- 

 stitutes for walls last a number of 

 years, when protected from per- 

 pendicular rains by copings which 

 project at least a foot on every side, 

 and when placed on footings which 

 j secure them from the damp of the 

 soil. Walls have also been formed 

 for training on, by inserting large 

 slates or thin flag-stones, such as 

 the Caithness pavement, either in 

 the soil (in which case the walls 

 are not above four or five feet in 

 height), or in frames of timber or 

 iron, in which case they may be of 



