HYACINTH. 155 
the bulb be even with the surface of the soil; water 
thoroughly, then place the flats in a cold frame, or shed, 
away from frost. They should remain in this condition 
at least four weeks before they are brought in for forcing. 
Heat should be applied gradually, beginning at 50° and 
running up to 65° or 70° F. To get flowers for Christ- 
mas, a little higher temperature will be required than is 
best to employ for a general crop. For a succession, 
bring in a new batch every two weeks. 
The Roman Hyacinth can be most successfully grown 
in the window-garden, and is more desirable than the 
large-flowered varieties, because of its coming into bloom 
much earlicr. For this purpose a four-inch pot can be 
used to advantage. Use any soil from the garden; put 
three bulbs in each pot, and treat in all other respects as 
the Dutch Hyacinth, only that the Roman can be started 
by the first of November, and in a favorable situation 
will flower by Christmas. They can just as well be 
brought on in shallow boxes if a greater number is re- 
quired. The only care necessary in the house is to pro- 
vide water when required, and to keep up as even a tem- 
perature as possible. A check from want of water, or 
because of too lowa temperature will prevent a perfect 
development of flowers. After flowering, the florists 
throw the bulbs into the rubbish heap, which is the only 
thing to do, as after forcing they are not worth saving. 
If grown more carefully in flats or pots until the bulbs 
are matured, then planted in the open border, they will 
flower moderately well for a number of years. But the 
room required is of more value than the cost of the bulbs. 
Dutch-Roman Hyacinth.—The Dutch growers 
are now competing with the French growers with the 
above named variety, which is claimed to be superior. 
Those who have given it a fair trial do not admit its 
superiority, and say that it is simply a selection of small 
bulbs of extra early Dutch Hyacinth. We think thisis a 
