POLIANTHES TUBEROSA. 261 
the bulbs four inches apart in the drills, three inches 
below the surface. Keep the cultivator constantly 
going, not to kill weeds, but to make Tuberose bulbs. 
After a frost take up the bulbs, cut the tops to within 
two inches of the tops of the bulbs, and store in a dry 
room, where the temperature does not fall below 40°. 
From North Carolina southward, small sets will make 
-large flowering bulbs in one season ; to the northward it 
requires two years. For that reason, what are known as 
**Southern grown bulbs,” can be profitably sold much 
cheaper than those grown at the North. Whether the 
latter are to be preferred because of their superiority, is 
a disputed question. Our opinion is that it is not a 
question of growth, but of the care taken of the bulbs 
after they are dug, that enhances or detracts from their 
value. Northern grown bulbs, like all other plants that 
have a shorter period of growth, will produce their flow- 
ers earlier, but whether with more eee we have 
great doubts. 
For blooming in the garden, the offsets should all 
be carefully taken off, and the bulbs put away until the 
wounds are dried over; then plant in good rich soil, 
placing the bulb just below the surface; if covered too 
deep they are not as likely to flower. 
Greenhouse Culture of Tuberoses.—Tuberoses 
can be had in bloom, with a little care, nearly the whole 
year. Plants that show flower buds in the field, upon 
the approach of frost, will perfect their growth if care- 
fully taken up and put in a warm greenhouse, as will 
bulbs that have not even shown their flower stalks. Dry 
bulbs may be planted from January to August, which 
will keep up a succession of bloom. They succeed best 
planted out on the benches with about four inches of 
good soil. The same conditions of growth must be 
observed indoors as without,—heat, manure, water, and 
a free circulation of air. They must, moreover, have 
