AND GENERAL HORTICULTURE. 



381 



ROS 



grown for winter arePerle desJardins (yellow), 

 Niphetos (white), Catharine Mermet (rose), 

 Bride (white), Papa Gontier (crimson). La 

 France (light rose), American Beauty (light 

 crimson), Souvenir de Wooton (crimson), 

 Madame de Watteville (carmine and white), 

 and Sunset (orange). There are still a number 

 of the older sorts, such as Safrano, Douglas, 

 and Isabella Sprunt, yet grown ; but they 

 are fast giving way to what is known as 

 "fancy" Roses, of which the yellow variety, 

 Perle des Jardins, is a type. Of Climbing 

 Roses, which are grown on the rafters of 

 the green-house, Marechal Neil (yellow), 

 Lamarque (white), James Sprunt (crimson), 

 Gloire de Dijon (salmon yellow), and Red 

 Gloire de Dijon (carmine), are the best. 

 Another class of Roses, the Hybrid Per- 

 petuals, particularly the variety known as 

 General Jacqueminot, are now grown in im- 

 mense quantities. 



Hybrid Perpetuals. — To get the Hybrid 

 Perpetual and the Hybrid Tea classes early 

 (say during January) requires special skill and 

 care, but well repays it, as this class of Roses 

 now brings an average of $35 per hundred buds 

 at wholesale, from the 15th of December to 

 January 15th. The method found to be neces- 

 sary is to grow these Roses on in pots, exactly 

 as recommended for the Evergreen or Tea 

 Roses, except that, as they have a tendency 

 to grow tall, the centre should be pinched out 

 of the leading shoots, so that from five to six 

 shoots run up, and thus not only make the 

 plant bushy, but, what is of more importance, 

 these slimmer shoots are less pithy and ripen 

 off harder, thus ensuring with more certainty 

 a greater production of buds. The plants, if 

 started from cuttings any time from Septem- 

 ber to January, which is the season we prefer 

 to root them in, will, if properly grown, by 

 August 1st (or at less than one year old) have 

 filled a seven or eight inch pot with roots. 

 Now is the critical point. The plants must 

 be ripened off and rested if a crop of buds is 

 wanted by January and February ; so to do that 

 at a season as early as the 1st of September, 

 the plants must be gradually dried off sufficient 

 to make them drop their leaves, though not 

 to so violently wilt them as to shrivel the 

 shoots. This we find easiest done by laying 

 the plants on their sides so as to prevent them 

 being soaked with the rain, which would start 

 them to grow and prevent the early ripening 

 of the shoots. A rest of two months is neces- 

 sary, so that the plants begun to be dried 

 off by the 1st of August may be started slowly 

 by the 1st of October, and those begun to be 

 dried off by the 1st of September may be 

 started, also at as low a temperature as possi- 

 ble, by the 1st of November. The kinds most 

 used are Magna Charta, Genl. Jacqueminot, 

 Ulrich Bruner, Anna de Diesbach, Paul Neyron, 

 and others of that class. Immense quan- 

 tities of Roses of this class are now grown in 

 solid beds. These beds require no special prep- 

 aration where the soil is naturally good, and 

 the natural drainage perfect, but where this is 

 not the case, the same compost recommended 

 for Tea Roses will answer, only using a greater 

 depth, from nine to twelve inches, over a well- 

 drained bottom. Hybrid Perpetual Roses, 

 planted out in solid beds, cannot be had so 

 early as when grown in pots, as, when thus 

 grown, they cannot well be given the rest 



ROS 



necessary for early forcing ; as a rule, in this 

 district, they are rarely in market before 

 February, and from then they are brought in, 

 in succession crops, until the Roses from out- 

 doors in June come in. The distance at which 

 they are planted is usually from fifteen to 

 eighteen inches each way. We may here state, 

 that many failures have resulted in the 

 attempt to grow the Hybrid Tea Roses with- 

 out resting, notably the Duchess of Edinburgh 

 Rose, which was sent out from England some 

 five or six years ago as a "Crimson Tea." 

 The misleading name of "Tea " induced hun- 

 dreds of florists to attempt its growth under 

 the same conditions as the Safrano or Bon 

 Silene class, and the consequence was in every 

 case almost complete failure. This type evi- 

 dently partakes more of the Hybrid Perpetual 

 than of the Tea class, and as they are hardy 

 and deciduous, refuse to bloom in midwinter 

 unless given the rest that their nature de- 

 mands. 



Mildew. — Roses, when grown under glass 

 with proper attention to temperature and 

 moisture, are not usually attacked by Mil- 

 dew ; but as a preventative it is well to 

 paint the hot-water pipes once every two 

 or three weeks with a mixture of sulphur 

 and linseed oil, or sulphur and guano, made 

 of the consistency of whitewash ; the guano 

 is merely to make the sulphur stick better to 

 the pipes. The fumes of sulphur, as radiated 

 by the heated pipes, is a never-failing means 

 of destroying the germs of mildew, or any 

 other fungoid growth, and also holds in check, 

 to some extent, the Red Spider insect, often 

 so troublesome to the Rose. (See Mildew.) 



Rose Bug. — For the Rose Bug, so destruc- 

 tive to success in Rose growing under glass, 

 there seems no remedy except the slow and 

 unsatisfactory one of catching and killing the 

 insect so soon as it is seen on the leaves. It 

 is not easily observed, as it gets under the 

 leaves and close to the shoots of the plants. 

 Its presence is known by the bitten leaves 

 showing where it is feeding ; but even with 

 the greatest diligence, enough will usually 

 escape to deposit their eggs in the soil, which, 

 when hatched out to the grub or pupa state, 

 rapidly begin the work of destruction by feed- 

 ing on the roots. In this stage all attempts to 

 destroy them have thus far, we believe, failed. 

 The only safety when the Rose Bug is known 

 to be present in sufficient numbers to injure, 

 is to throw out the plants and start with 

 young ones. We have for two years past 

 adopted this plan exclusively, growing the 

 plants only one year old from cuttings rooted 

 during the fall or winter months, and have 

 since then had no trouble whatever from the 

 ravages of this insect. We know, of course, 

 that there are many Rose houses that are 

 even nine to ten years old that never fail to 

 produce abundant crops, particularly such as 

 Marechal Neil and other climbers; but in such 

 cases it seems to be that the Roses planted 

 either had escaped the visitation of the Rose 

 Bug altogether, or had got so deeply and 

 strongly rooted before being attacked that 

 they could not injure the plants. 



Shading. — There is some difference of 

 opinion as to the propriety of shading Rose 

 houses during the hot summer months. We 

 believe that a slight shading is beneficial, and 

 for that purpose use naphtha mixed with a 



