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up in the area, trumpeting at the same time. Im- 
mediately after he has pronounced the blessing, 
with his arms extended, all the people kneel to re- 
ceive it. His washing the pilgrims’ feet, and serv- 
ing them at dinner, are sights altogether novel ; but 
the finest thing of all is his saying mass on Easter 
Sunday. The altar of St. Peter’s was set out with 
candlesticks and statues of pure gold, each about 
four feet high. Behind it, at some distance, was a 
most magnificent throne for the Pope, who came in 
a chair on men’s shoulders, blessing the people as 
he advanced. Behind him were carried two im- 
mense fans of white peacocks’ feathers, and before 
him about eight different mitres and tiaras, for the 
most part covered with the finest pearls and gems, 
besides one which he wore on his head. The cere- 
monies of the preceding days were chiefly in the 
Sixtine chapel; there we heard such music, all 
vocal, as I never heard elsewhere, especially the 
Miserere, which is so very famous. I could have 
no idea before of such sounds, yet I can conceive 
that music might be carried further. We dressed 
in black, full dress, as is the fashion, and were 
easily admitted everywhere, as the Romans make a 
point of showing attention to strangers. There 
were a great many foreigners of the first distinction; 
the Duke of Gloucester and family (whom we have 
visited here since they came from Naples), the Duke 
and Duchess of Buccleugh, Lord and Lady Gower, 
&c. The fireworks at St. Angelo are inferior to 
what I have seen, except the vast fountain of fire, 
which Wright has painted. Two evenings in the 
