28 ALPINE PLANTS 
rock-work construction that may produce natural effect 
as distinct from incongruous mimicry, and many notable 
instances could be quoted where rockeries have been so 
conceived as to convey the impression that they have 
always been part of the landscape. 
It would be futile to attempt to achieve a like result in 
a rectangular garden on the level, girt by brick walls or a 
neat and trim privet hedge, but nevertheless the owner of 
such a garden may desire to cultivate a collection of alpine 
plants, and there is no reason whatever why he should 
not gratify that desire, so long as he is content to study 
the cultural requirements of the plants rather than the 
pretentious display of stone. 
Let the root run be the first consideration, taking it for 
granted that the best available site and aspect has been 
selected, and in a small garden that matter simply resolves 
itself into taking the best that is there. The root run 
must be expansive and deep. If on a slope there will be 
no difficulty regarding drainage, but if the rockery is to 
be a mound built up from a level base, or if the idea is to 
have it sunken below the surrounding level, attention must 
be paid to proper drainage. Stagnant moisture is poisonous 
to the great majority of alpine plants. 
A mound of soil should be “ crocked”’ at the base with 
a good body of brick rubble. A sunken rockery requires 
properly pipe-draining. The soil should be rich in vegetable 
matter or humus, made porous by an admixture of sharp 
sand, mortar rubble, or burnt earth. Rank animal manure 
is unnecessary, in fact undesirable. Whatever stone is 
used it should be of a porous nature. Limestone, and 
