26 



Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 



not in accordance with their wants in the 

 above respect. Still, no mistake can be 

 made in growing all the under-mentioned 

 in peat as full of decayed fei'n roots and 

 other vegetable fibre as can be got, and it 

 will be advisable to add a seventh part of 

 cliarcoal, or crocks broken about the size 

 of horse beans ; to this put a moderate 

 quantity of sand, and mix the whole well 

 together. In this soil they will not only 

 make roots freely, but the roots will live 

 much longer— a circumstance that has a 

 deal to do with the number of suckers the 

 plants are able to throw up after floweiing, 

 and on Avhich in a great measure depends 

 the rate of increase in things of this nature 

 that are slow to propagate. 



The several species form from the base 

 of the full-grown plants, about or after 

 the time of blooming, suckers like most 

 Bromeliads. These should be allowed to 

 remain upon the old plants until they have 

 attained a considerable size — say one-fourth 

 that of the croAvns from which they spring. 

 It is important to leave them attached to 

 the parent plant until they have got 

 something like the above size, as, if 

 removed too young, they are long in mak- 

 ing much progress. When thus allowed 

 to attain a fair size before being taken off, 

 they will generally be found to have a 

 number of roots j ust breaking round the 

 base. The suckers will usually be in a 

 condition to take off in the autumn. Slip 

 them off with the fingers, and be careful 

 not to injure these incipient roots ; they 

 may also be taken off with the help of a 

 sharp knife. In this condition they will 

 root into the soil immediately. Put them 

 singly in from 3 in. to 6 in. pots, according 

 to the size of the suckers ; drain the pots 

 well, and for this first potting sift the soil, 

 forcing all the fibrous portion through the 

 sieve, and add more sand (about one-fifth) 

 than will be required when the plants get 

 larger ; give a moderate watering at the time 

 they are put in, and place them at the 

 warmest end of the stove, in a temperature 

 of 65° or 70°. If a little bottom heat is at 

 hand, it will assist the formation of roots ; 

 but do not cover them with a propagating 

 glass, as the hard close texture of the leaves 

 is of a nature that allows little loss by 

 evaporation, consequently they do not flag 

 when exposed in the atmosphere of the 

 stove, as wovild be the case with ordinary 

 cuttings of most things. Kinds, such as 

 M. f uigens, that form a few inches of stem 

 below the point where the leaves are 

 emitted, simply require inserting in the 

 soil up to the base of the leaves ; in the 

 case of species that do not make any length 

 of stem, it will be necessary to strip off a 



few of the bottom leaves before putting 

 them in. Keep them through the winter 

 in a night temperature of 60°, with 5^ 

 higher in the day, place them in a light 

 position, and let the soil be moderately 

 moist. 



By the beginning of i\Iarch, as the days 

 get longer, raise the temperature 5° during 

 the night, and 10° during the day ; about 

 the end of the month move them into 

 pots one or two inches larger, according to 

 the size of the jjlants, using the soil in a 

 rougher state, and adding crocks or char- 

 coal, as already advised. The pots must 

 be well drained, and must not be used too 

 large, as the whole of the different species 

 do not like too much root-room. When 

 the sun gets more powerful, shade will 

 be required in the middle of the day. By 

 the Ijeginning of May the temperature 

 should be increased to 70° in the night, and 

 pro]3ortionately higher by day, giving air in 

 good time, but closing early in the after- 

 noons. A slight syringing at the time of 

 shutting up will assist growth. Continue 

 this treatment through the summer 

 months, always keeping the soil mode- 

 rately moist, as, if allowed to become dry 

 at any time, the plants will be injured. 

 At the end of August dispense with shading 

 and give more air ; as the autimm advances 

 reduce the temperature down to the point 

 recommended for the season previous, and 

 Avinter similarly. As the days again 

 lengthen increase the temperature, and move 

 them into pots two inches larger, using the 

 soil in a more lumpy state. Treat as in 

 the preceding growing season as to heat, 

 shade, and moisture. In the course of the 

 summer the plants will push up their 

 flowers, and as they open may, if required, 

 be placed in a warm conservatory, but 

 must not be set where they will be subject 

 to a current of air, neither must they be 

 exposed to the sun. When done blooming 

 move them back to the stove, and treat as 

 before. Suckers will now be formed, and 

 when large enough should be taken off 

 iind treated generally as already advised. 

 The old plants should be kept, and, if well 

 cared for, -will through the spring push up 

 more suckers, which can, when they have 

 attained sufficient size, be taken oft' and 

 struck as recommended for those first 

 produced. 



The following species, though differing 

 much in size and general appearance, will 

 all succeed under similar treatment ; of 

 coui'se proportioning the size of the pots 

 in which they are grown to that which 

 the different kinds naturally attain. 



jE. fnlgens. Bears bright red, erect 

 flower spikes, that have the appearance of 



