Greenhouse and IStove Plants. 



89 



Though Camellias strike readily from 

 cuttings made of the half-ripened shoots, the 

 more usual and also more satisfactory method 

 of increase is by grafting in some of the 

 ordinary Avays on the fi'ee-growing single 

 kinds ; but this work, also, will be 

 generally better left to those who make 

 the propagation of this and kindred subjects 

 their business. In the selection of young 

 stock to grow on, there are two things to 

 be kept in view — first that the plants should 

 be in a free vigorous state, not pot-bound, 

 and that they should be of the right shape. 

 Quantities of the young plants sold are 

 wanting in the latter requirement. They 

 usually consist of a single shoot, inserted 

 in the stock some 6 inches above the 

 collar, and allowed to grow on wdth a 

 leading stem ; from this, at 10 or 12 inches 

 above the pot, proceed several weaker 

 shoots, which seldom get a chance of 

 attaining their wonted strength through 

 the leading shoot being allowed to run 

 away with more than its share of sap ; and 

 the result is that in after years these side 

 branches die off, and leave the plants 

 naked and bare at the bottom. If the 

 leader had been stopped at the proper 

 time so as to induce the production of 

 three or four shoots of equal strength, and 

 these in their turn had been again timely 

 shortened to cause them to break back, the 

 foundation for a well-shaped specimen in 

 the future would have been laid. Half 

 the Camellias we meet with are spoilt in 

 the early stages of their existence for want 

 of sufficient use of the knife. Camellias 

 are naturally of a bushy habit, and for 

 general purposes are much best grown in 

 bush form. 



Young plants procured early in the 

 spring, jirst before they begin to grow, 

 may at once be placed in a night tempera- 

 ture of 55°, and the heat may be allowed 

 to rise 10° or 15° in the day-time. Keep 

 the soil well moistened, and syringe over- 

 head once or twice a-day, as Camellias 

 require to be kept, especially during the 

 growing season, moist at the r'oots and in a 

 humid atmosphere. Previous to the com- 

 mencement of growth the branches should 

 be tied out, so as to admit light to the 

 centre of the plants, and to give them the 

 required shape ; but in this training the 

 shoots must not be bent down to a hori- 

 zontal position as advised with most hard- 

 wooded subjects. If this is done the ett'ect 

 will be to stop the points of the branches 

 from extending further, and to cause them 

 to break back in a way neither requisite 

 nor desirable. Any branch that is stronger 

 than the others, it will be well to tie down 

 a little lower ; thus the others will be 



strengthened, and when growth has fairly 

 commenced any shoots that show a disposi- 

 tion to take an undue lead should be 

 pinched out. This is much better than 

 letting them grow on to the end of the 

 season, and afterwards cutting them back, 

 as the latter plan causes a waste of strength, 

 as well as a sacrifice of time in getting the 

 plants up to a useful size. 



During the growing season they v/ill 

 need a thin shade to protect them from 

 the direct influence of the sun ; but never- 

 theless they must have plenty of light, and 

 not be stood too close together. To over- 

 shading and overcrowding through the 

 growing season may be attributed the 

 unsatisfactory condition in which these 

 plants are often found. Give a moderate 

 amount of air in the early part of the day, 

 aird shut up soon eirough to secure, by the 

 help of the sun, a warm, close atmosj^here 

 in the evening. Wlien the shoots have 

 ceased to extend further, the flower-buds 

 will form in the jioints. As soon as these 

 are fairly distinguishable pot such as re- 

 quire it ; for although Camellias are plants 

 that do not need or' will not bear so much 

 root-room as many things, they must not 

 be allowed to get pot-bound. If the plants 

 are in 6 or 8 inch pots, a 2-inch shift will 

 be enough. They will thrive in either 

 loam or peat ; the latter induces more 

 luxuriant foliage, with a greater dispo.si- 

 tion to growth, birt good turfy loam is 

 preferable, as it does not so soon get ex- 

 hausted, and the plants usually flower 

 freer in it. The turf, cut about 2^ inches 

 thick, should be stacked sufficiently long 

 before use, but not longer' than necessary 

 to allow of the roots of the grass dying, for 

 if these are further decomposed the plants 

 do not grow so freely in it, and the soil is 

 more liable to get into an adhesive state 

 before it is fully occupied by the roots. 

 The turf should be broken by hand, into 

 pieces about the size of small walnuts for 

 young stock, and larger for such as are 

 older ; add sand in proportion to the more 

 or less sandy nature of the loam, l)earing 

 in mind that they should never need shak- 

 ing out, or the removal of any considerable 

 portion of the soil ; therefore enough sand 

 should be mixed with it to ensure continued 

 porosit}^ 



Before moving the plants from the pots 

 they occupy, see that the balls are quite 

 moist. If in good condition the roots will 

 be closely interlaced round the ball, often 

 enveloping the drainage material, which 

 should be removed completely ; disentangle 

 a portion of the outside roots, so far' as can 

 be done without much breakage — they are 

 I very brittle ; drain well with clean crocks. 



