CAMELLIA. 



Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 



91 



Though they may be kept in a temperature 

 such as existed whilst the growth was 

 being made, even until the flowers expand 

 if such be desirable, their removal from 

 the influence of such heat appears to in- 

 duce a slower condition of flower develop- 

 ment that will liear little attempt at 

 acceleration. Camellias look well trained 

 over a back wall in a greenliouse or cool 

 conservatory, either giown in pots, tubs, or 

 planted out. In the last way they increase 

 in size more rapidly, as tliey dn, also, when 

 planted out in a well-prepared lied in the 

 body of the house. So treated, they thrive 

 in a way that cannot be equalled by pot ()r 

 tub culture , but when they are to be 

 grown in this manner they should not lie 

 planted out in a very small state, as the 

 limited quantity of roots they possess are 

 not able to take hold of the large body of 

 soil before it gets into a sodden state. The 

 j)rincipal objection to planting a collection 

 of Camellias out is, that the system does 

 not admit of a portion of the stock being 

 removed to cooler qxiarters after the buds 

 are set, so as to retard their flowering and 

 thus afi'ord a longer succession, or of 

 starting some later with the same object ; 

 neither can the plants be so readily washed 

 with any insecticide for the destruction of 

 insects. 



When Camellias that have attained a 

 moderate or considerable size happen to 

 get into a stunted condition, with an in- 

 sutticiency of branches and foliage, there is 

 no method equal to planting out for re- 

 storing them to health. "Wliere this has to 

 be done, a bed of good turfy loam or peat, 

 if the plants are much enfeebled, should be 

 prepared, with enough sand added to 

 ensme porosity. It should Ije made at 

 least 6 inches deeper than the depth of the 

 balls of the plants, and the bottom well 

 and carefully drained ; into this they 

 should be turned out, either in spring 

 before growth commences, or, better, after 

 the growth is fully completed, but in the 

 case of plants in the state i;nder considera- 

 tion the later time of moving is not of so 

 much importance. To prevent any possi- 

 bility of the balls getting dry it will be 

 well to puncture them freely from the 

 surface to the bottom vnih. a stout iron 

 wire in the form of a skewer. With the 

 same view also the soil surrounding the 

 ball must be well-rammed, and made an 

 inch or so higher than the surface of the 

 ball, so as to force the water given through 

 it. After the first season, when the rot)ts 

 have extended, the soil thus raised may be 

 levelled down. Camellias so treated 

 geneially break out quantities of young 

 shoots from the old wood, and in a few 



years get dense and full of growth, when, 

 if desired, they may be taken up and re- 

 placed in pots or- boxes. This should be 

 done as soon as the buds are set, keeping 

 the plants close for some weeks. If the 

 operation is caiefully carried out, and they 

 are afterwards fairly treated, they will 

 generally flower freely the ensuing winter 

 and spring. 



When Camellias get into a straggling, 

 naked condition it is frequently desiiable 

 to cut them right back to the strong 

 branches, or to head doAvn so far, removing 

 the top altogether to within 8 or 9 inches 

 above where grafted. The union with the 

 stock is usually easily to l)e seen, and, 

 although no eyes on the stem are per- 

 ceptible, it will break into growth at every 

 l^lace where there was a leaf during the 

 earliest existence of the scion ; but heading 

 down, or even cutting back to any extent, 

 should never be attempted unless the plants 

 are fairly stocked with healthy roots, as 

 death will most likely Ije the result. The 

 operation ought to be carried out in the 

 spiing, a month or so before the wood-buds 

 have begun to sAvell ; if defeired later, the 

 stools geneially bleed to an injurious ex- 

 tent. When headed down they should be 

 placed in a gentle heat and the soil kept 

 slightly moist, but not wet. A little more 

 water may be given when broken faiily. 

 Keep during the summer in a growing 

 temperature, with a moderately humid 

 atmosphere. They usually make long, 

 vigorous growth, which will need stopping 

 and slightly tying out so as to make them 

 shapely. 



The after treatment required will be of 

 a similar nature to the ordinary stock. 

 There is some diff"erence of opinion 

 amongst growers of Camellias as to the 

 use of manure -water. We have tried 

 liquid stimulants of different kinds, and 

 have found them decidedly beneficial (es- 

 pecially to jilants that are rather deficient in 

 pot-room), when given j ust before and during 

 the season of their making groAvtb, but at 

 no other time. Liquid from stable manure 

 with a little soot added will weU answer 

 the purpose. 



The following is a list of the best kinds, 

 old and new : — 



C. alba plena (double white). Still un- 

 surpassed for all properties. 



0. Archdiichesse Marie. Red, banded 

 ^\-ith white, imbricated ; flowers very 

 double. 



C. Bealii. Very deep crimson. One of 

 the best ; flowers late in spring. 



G. Bonomiana. White, banded with deep 

 red. 



C. candidissima. Medium -sized flower 



