CLERODENDRON. 



Greenhouse and Stove Plants. 



113 



to the two first-named kinds, but does not 

 need so much root-room. It is a native of 

 China. All the above are sufficiently stout 

 in their habit of growth not to need any 

 support beyond a single stick to each 

 shoot. 



C. splendens. This is an evergreen twiner 

 of moderate, but not very quick growth. 

 The flowers, which are deep scarlet, are 

 produced in slightly drooping panicles 

 from the young wood, and are very hand- 

 some. This species is well adapted for 

 clothing a pillar or rafter, and looks well 

 trained on a moderate-sized wire trellis. 

 It is from Sierra Leone, and can be propa- 

 gated by means of cuttings, but these re- 

 quire to be selected with judgment, as if 

 made from hard, wiry shoots, they do not 

 either root or grow freely, and, on the 

 other hand, if too soft they generally damp 

 off. The best cuttings are those obtained 

 from a strong, mature branch that has 

 been cut back. The young shoots that 

 afterwards break from it should be taken 

 oil with a heel when about 8 inches long. 

 These can be got in the summer, and will 

 root in sand. They should be placed singly 

 in small pots under a propagating glass in a 

 temperature of 75°, and when well-rooted 

 they should be moved into 6-inch pots in 

 fibrous peat, to which has been added one- 

 sixth of sand. "When they begin to grow 

 place a stick in each pot for support, giving 

 them a light situation, with air every day, 

 and shade when the weather is such as to 

 require it, syringing overhead when the 

 house is closed until autumn. Reduce the 

 heat 5° day and night as the sun gets less 

 powerful, and in winter a night tempera- 

 ture of 60° will be sufficient. About the 

 middle of Fel>ruary give them 5° more 

 warmth, which will induce the roots to 

 move, and a month afterwards shift them 

 into 10-iuch pots, again using good j)eat 

 and enough sand to keep it oi^en ; lunch 

 out the points of the shoots in order to 

 induce them to break back During the 

 spring and summer they will bear a 

 temperature of 70° at night, giving air 

 when the thermometer rises to 80° ; shade 

 in sunny weather during the middle of the 

 day, and syringe freely overhead when the 

 house is closed, which should be done early 

 in the afternoon. As the growth requires 

 sujjport, put in each pot four or five sticks, 

 round which train the shoots, but do not 

 allow them to become entangled one with 

 another, which often happens if not 

 attended to. Keep them in these pots 

 during the season, again lowering the 

 temperature in autumn, and discontinue 

 the use of shading and syringing ; winter 

 as last year, gradually raising the tempera- 



ture when the days lengthen sufficiently 

 to require it. About the same time in 

 spring shift them into their flowering pots, 

 which for this first season should be 13-in. 

 ones ; put them in soil similar to that 

 previously recommended, and place a wire 

 trellis to each plant, over which train the 

 shoots evenly. Give heat, shade, and air 

 as during the previous summer, and also 

 water to the roots and overliead. By 

 midsummer they may be expected to show 

 flowers, which will continue to open and 

 remain in good condition for several weeks, 

 during which time the plants may be 

 placed where they can be kept a little 

 cooler, but they must not be put where 

 they will be subjected to draughts or to too 

 low a temperature, or the flowers will fall 

 ofi" before they open. Keep the shoots 

 regularly trained as hitherto. After the 

 blooming is over, they may, if too full of 

 growth, be slightly cut in and kept through 

 the autumn and winter as before. Again 

 about the time that growth is commencing 

 the plants should be turned out of their 

 pots, removing any loose soil that may 

 exist, but they must not be shaken out, as 

 is often done in the case of deciduous 

 subjects, or the leaves will suffer ; move 

 them into pots 3 inches larger, using soil 

 the same as previously, and treating them 

 in every way similarly. They will last for 

 many years by removing a little of the 

 surface soil each spring without disturbing 

 the roots too much ; they will also be 

 benefited by receiving manure-water in the 

 growing season. When tliis Clerodendron 

 is used as a climber it is better to grow it 

 in a pot, as Irom its moderate habit of 

 growth the roots are not so well calculated 

 for planting out. C. speciosum, which is 

 a handsome variety of C. splendens, may 

 be treated in every way like it. 



C. Balfouri. Among deciduous, twining 

 Clerodendrons this is much the best. It 

 is a vigorous, quick grower, and may be 

 either planted out or grown in a pot, for 

 which latter purpose it is well adapted 

 either for flowering in a small state, or for 

 growing into large specimens. It strikes 

 freely from cuttings, which should be taken 

 off with a heel as soon as they are 8 inches 

 long, and if the plants have been started 

 about the beginning of February, the 

 cuttings will be large enough to take off 

 by the end of March. Put them singly in 

 3-inch pots, filled with two-thirds sand to 

 one of loam, sifted fine. Being very soft, 

 tliey require to be kept moist, or they will 

 flag if much air is given. Keep them' until 

 rooted under a propagating glass in a night 

 temperature of 70°. with a little more heat 

 during the day. Give just as much air as 



