218 



Greenhouse and Stove Planets. 



sand, kept moderately close and moist in 

 a brisk bottom heat, they will generally 

 callus over at the base in about two months, 

 and form roots in a similar length of time, 

 but the most certain means of propagation, 

 and generally the best for private growers, 

 who only require a limited number of 

 plants, is to layer the shoots. Those 

 operated upon should be of the preceding 

 summer's growth, and of any convenient 

 length, say 5 or 6 feet from the points ; if 

 these are slightly notched through at a 

 joint in the way Carnation layers are pre- 

 ])ared, and pegged down into 4-inch pots, 

 drained and filled with a mixture of half 

 fibrous ]3eat and loam, the joint slightly 

 covered with soil, and kept moderately 

 moist, they will form roots enough to sup- 

 port the shoot and allow of its being 

 severed from the parent plant in ten or 

 twelve weeks. The laj^ering may be per- 

 f jrmed any time after the growth lias at- 

 tained moderate solidity in the autumn 

 until spring. Where a fair amount of heat 

 can be kept up through the winter the 

 layering may take place in autumn, which 

 will give time for the young plants to get 

 established on their own roots by spring, 

 in which case a considerable saving of time 

 will be effected, which will enable them to 

 make a full season's growth. If layered 

 so as to get well rooted in the spring, they 

 will bear moving by the end of May into 

 6 or 7 inch pots, but it is not advisable to 

 give too much root-room, as the plant is 

 naturally much slower in growth than the 

 generality of stove twiners or climbers, 

 and it never attains anything near the size 

 that most things do which luxuriate in 

 strong heat ; on this account it is much 

 better adajjted for stoves of limited extent 

 than many plants that less deservedly are 

 chosen. In no position will it better suc- 

 ceed, or interfere less with the other occu- 

 pants of the house, than run on two or 

 three Avires lengthways over the path; here 

 its beautiful, distinct, and handsome rosy 

 led flowers are seen to the best advantage. 

 As soon as the plants commence to grow 

 they must each have a neat stick, round 

 which the shoots will twine, and when 

 they have begun to extend freely they 

 should be stopped back, so as to secure 

 their breaking enough shoots to occupy 

 the room at disposal in the place they are 

 to fill. So far as their requirements of 

 heat, air, shade, and moisture go, they -will 

 succeed with that given to the generality 

 of plants grown in a warm stove ; 65° iia 

 the night, with a rise of 10° in the day, 

 during the spring and summer, will 

 answer for them, but they must not be 

 kept too cool through the last months of 



the year, or in Januaiy and Felnniaiy, 

 which is the usual time of their blooming 

 — sooner or later, according to the heat 

 maintained. Although the young plants 

 will not flower much the first winter, it 

 will be well to treat them in every way as 

 if older. They will require little training 

 after the shoots have once taken to twin- 

 ing round the wires, except that each 

 should be kept to its individual wire, for 

 if they get entangled it will be difficult 

 afterwards to separate them. Shade just 

 sufficient to prevent the leaves scorching 

 during very bright weather, but discon- 

 tinue it as early in the autumn as it can 

 be dispensed with, and keep the atmo- 

 sphere drier. The soil should never be 

 kept so wet as in the case of freer rooting 

 j)lants. By the end of March they will 

 require moving into larger pots — about 12 

 inches in diameter. If very good fibrous 

 loam is to be had, we should give it the 

 preference, but where this is not at hand 

 jDeat should be used. The shoots may be 

 at this time shortened back about one- 

 fourth, which will induce theii' breaking 

 several eyes ; two or three growths may 

 now be allowed to each wire. Increase 

 the temperature as the days lengthen, but 

 be careful not to give very much water to 

 the roots until they have got fairly into 

 the new soil ; again commence syringing 

 overhead in the afternoons, and continue 

 to do so until the beginning of September, 

 wdien shading also may be dispensed with. 

 If a temperature similar to that advised 

 has been kept up, the flowers will begin to 

 form towards the close of the year ; they 

 open in succession for several weeks. If 

 required they may be taken off singly and 

 mounted for bouquets, as from their very 

 distinct character they harmonise well 

 with most other things. When the bloom- 

 ing is over the plants can be kept some- 

 Avhat drier at the roots for a few weeks ; 

 this will give them a rest, and afterwards 

 the shoots may be shortened back, and as 

 soon as they have pushed fiesh growth 

 they should be moved into i^ots about 3 

 inches larger than those they have already 

 occupied, at the same time removing as 

 much of the old soil from tlie upper por- 

 tion of the ball as can be done without 

 doing harm. Again water sparingly until 

 the roots are fairly moving, as this Ipomoea 

 always requires care in this respect, for if 

 the soil gets at all saturates! the roots are 

 liable to perish, which would probably not 

 cause the death of the plant, but would spoil 

 the growth for a season, as it would take a 

 considerable time to make fresh feeding 

 fibres. Continue to treat as already ad- 

 vised, both during the summer, when the 



