Greenhouse and Stove Plants 



245 



when they should be planted out where 

 they are to remain. The border ought to 

 be sufficiently drained, and the drainage 

 secured from beconung clogged up with 

 the soil; this will occur through the action 

 of worms, which will assuredly get into it 

 unless the crocks are well covered with 

 enough fibrous material that will not soon 

 decompose. To the want of sufficient 

 provision of this kind may be attributed 

 the frequent non-success with climbers that 

 are not of an over-vigorous habit The 

 soil in conservatory borders is, owing to 

 the position in which it is placed, in a 

 great measure out of the reach of sun and 

 air, and generally has numbers of plants 

 in pots standing upon it, with the water 

 from them continually descending into it. 

 The necessity will therefore at once be 

 apparent of taking all possible care in 

 making these borders, to use such materials, 

 and so put them together, as to secure their 

 keeping in an open porous condition. For 

 this and similar growing plants one-sixth 

 of charcoal, broken about the size of Horse 

 Chestnuts will much increase the porosity 

 of the soil ; let the peat be of the best 

 fibrous description, use it in a lumpy 

 state, and in addition to the charcoal add 

 one-sixth of coarse sand ; the border, in- 

 dependent of the drainage, should be 9 or 

 10 inches deep. In planting, spread the 

 roots well out, and do not cover them too 

 deep — about 4 inches will be enough ; give 

 as much water as will keep the soil in a 

 healthy condition, but not more. The 

 shoots should at once be trained to the 

 wires, and run up to the roof without any 

 attempt to induce them to break out, as it 

 is from the roof that the flowers, to be 

 eff'ective, should be jiroduced. Nothing 

 more will be required than attention to 

 training, gi\ang water to the roots, and 

 constant daily use of the syringe during 

 the growing season. When the plants 

 have filled their allotted space whatever 

 cutting-in is found requisite should be 

 done each winter, but do not to this 

 Mandevilla use the knife any more than is 

 necessary. In the course of two or three 

 years, if the soil shows signs of getting 

 exhausted, remove 2 or 3 inches in the 

 spring, replace it with new, and assist the 

 plants through the growing season with 

 manure-water. 



Insects. — This plant is liable to red 

 spider, butif the precaution already advised, 

 of constant use of the syringe during the 

 spring and summer is attended to, they 

 will never gain a footing. Aphides mil 

 sometimes make their appearance on the 

 young shoots and are best destroyed by 

 fumigation. 



MANETTIA. 



These form a small genus of evergreen 

 twining plants suitable for growing on the 

 roof of a cool stove or intermediate house. 

 Tliey are of a comparatively thin habit ot 

 growth, which well adapts them for draping 

 the roof of a house where other things 

 growing underneath do not want much 

 shade. For this purpose Manettias might 

 with advantage be much more grown than 

 they are ; their small, tube-shaped, bright 

 coloured flowers are produced in such 

 profusion as to make them very attractive. 

 They strike freely in the spring from 

 cuttings made of the young shoots in a 

 somewhat immature state. These may be 

 put in an inch apart round the side of a 5 

 or 6 inch pot in sand ; if kept close and 

 moist, they wiU soon form roots ; after 

 being fairly established, move singly into 

 3-inch pots in sandy peat. When the 

 young plants have got into active growth 

 pinch out their points, and place a few 

 thin sticks for each to twine round. A 

 moderate stove temperature suits them 

 best, Avith a little shade when it is very 

 hot ; stand them in a light place, and 

 syringe overhead daily. Towards the end 

 of June give them 7 or 8 inch pots, keeping 

 the shoots from getting entangled. It is 

 particularly necessary to attend to this 

 until placed where they are to remain. 

 Treat during the autumn so as to mature 

 the growth rather than to encourage 

 extension. A temperature of 55° will 

 answer through the winter. In the spring 

 the plants will require 10 or 12 inch pots ; 

 make the soil moderately firm in potting. 

 Those that are to be grown as trained 

 specimens -will need either wire trellises or 

 several slicks inserted just inside the pots ; 

 round them the shoots must be regularly 

 trained until they have covered the whole, 

 after which they may be allowed to ramble 

 more freely. Where to be trained to a 

 rafter the growths must at first be kept to 

 the wires intended to support them till 

 these aie furnished, and they may be 

 allowed nrore freedom afterwards. So far 

 as water, heat, air, and shade are concerned, 

 treat them as in the first summer. The 

 plants bloom profusely, generally remain- 

 ing in flower all through the latter part of 

 summer and autumn, after which they 

 may be partially cut in, kept cooler and 

 drier as before during the winter. Give 

 more pot-room in spring, according to the 

 extent of space the plants are intended to 

 occupy. 



The following two species are deserving 

 of ciiltivation : — 



M. bicolor. Flowers scarlet and yeUow, 



