148 Audubon's Western Journal 



dozens. It makes frequent stops, and each time 

 curls its tail on its back, and waves it gently four or 

 five times most gracefully, finally retreating to 

 some hole in the sand, or to a thicket of cactus 

 which abounds. 



We have met no Indians of the old Aztec race ; 

 fifty Papagos would count all we have seen, and 

 they are fast passing away judging from the dilap- 

 idations of the towns, and the numbers of empty 

 houses. The people live on turtles, and what game 

 they can get. I have seen some elk and antelope 

 skins dressed and terrapin shells are everywhere. 

 We have bought two terrapin fresh killed, some 

 roots, and the fruit of a plant like the maguey; 

 we have seen one or two fine horses, small, but 

 well formed, ridden with only a rope around the 

 neck; others had saddles; all the men ride lightly 

 and well. 



We came to some of their burial mounds, and 

 saw the kettles and culinary articles of this poor 

 people left for the dead, to aid them on their 

 journey to the happy hunting grounds prepared for 

 them by the Great Spirit. They are happy in 

 their faith, and with no dissenting voices about 

 this method of salvation or that. 



At one place just after leaving the second rancho 

 of Papago Indians on September i8th, we crossed 

 what might certainly be called a part of the desert. 

 Strips of red gravel a mile or two long, and two 



