Through Arizona to San Diego 151 



manner; in front of nearly every one however, 

 there is a shade, made by planting four poles, and 

 erecting on these a platform, first of sticks and 

 brush, and finally earth on which some plants and 

 grasses grow. I saw one covered with a gourd 

 vine falling in festoons and strings, and bearing 

 its hard fruit in profusion; the pleasant verdure 

 looked very inviting as we rode by in the broiling 

 sun. Two or three squaws were sitting under it, 

 on the palmetto mats, coarsely made, occupying 

 themselves with their daily avocations, some sewing 

 on thin cotton stufif, some preparing the food. The 

 women were generally large and square-faced, 

 with low foreheads and ugly mouths, but fine eyes ; 

 they are generally dark, and very occasionally a 

 fairly good-looking girl is seen. We took an 

 Indian guide here, and offered him first a dollar a 

 day; he took the money and held out his hands for 

 more ; two men were with him, one of whom asked 

 what else would we give; he was shown a half- 

 worn shirt; again he asked for more, a white shirt 

 was given him, he looked at the shirts and the 

 money, and pointed to a bright butcher knife; it 

 was given to him. He gave a smile of satisfaction, 

 jumped on his horse, which stood ready beside 

 him, pointed out the road, motioned ahead and 

 galloped ofTf to his own house, some quarter of a 

 mile distant. Two or three of our party followed 

 him, myself among the number, and saw him lay 



