San Diego to San Francisco 177 



The Missions seem to have been divided into the 

 residence, with beautiful gardens, the church, the 

 stock farm and the grain-growing lands, and all 

 have possessed much comfort if not considerable 

 wealth. Naturally those who lived in them wished 

 to isolate themselves from the world, and to sur- 

 render the pleasures and ambitions found there, 

 for the advancement of their religion, or, at least, 

 were willing to do so. 



November Qth. I have already seen the nucleus 

 of an American rancho, in this country, which is 

 lonely rather than desolate. We have passed 

 many fine old Missions, at least six or seven, but 

 though in the midst of beautiful land, with hun- 

 dreds of horses and cattle, and many herds of sheep 

 and goats, the indolence of the people has left all 

 decaying, and they live in dirt and ignorance, and 

 merely vegetate away this life in listlessness, except 

 for the occasional excitement of a trade in horses, 

 or a game of monte. We have had many melons, 

 late in the season as we are; they are pulled and 

 put up as the French do pears, and keep fresh for 

 many weeks. 



All the people here ride well, and fast, many 

 without saddles; these latter tie a rope, or if they 

 have it, a surcingle, buckle that around the body 

 of the horse, and stick both knees under it, so that 

 it is a great assistance to them. The gallop is the 

 usual gait at which they travel. The continual 



