1900 SUPPLEMENT—RECENT INTRODUCTIONS, &C. 229 
Chrysanthemum—continued. 
from even Chrysanthemum specialists’ catalogues. With 
the Incurved section, very few indeed of those most 
valued a quarter of a century ago are now considered 
worth cultivating. In the Anemone section there has 
likewise been the same advance; while the LEarly- 
flowering varieties, of which there is such a magnificent 
selection, were practically unknown. The same also applies 
to the Single and the Hirsute varieties, the single sorts in 
many instances being very pretty and most useful for cutting. 
In a Pompone and Reflexed sections there is the least 
advance, and it is a question if the last-named will ever 
become favourites. The thing to be regretted in connection 
with the exhibition Chrysanthemum is the tendency to 
coarseness in the flowers. 
LaTE-FLOWERING VARIETIES. Many growers plant out 
all their varieties with a view to increase or improve 
their stamina, and thus obtain better cuttings than those 
taken from pampered pot plants. A still better plan is 
to procure cuttings from a distance, where the conditions 
as regards soil and situation are totally different. Plants 
raised from these cuttings almost invariably produce far 
superior flowers to those obtained from home-grown ones. 
When cuttings are received somewhat limp, they should 
be placed in lnkewarm water for an hour; this will freshen 
them up and make them in good condition for potting. In 
November, or as early in December as the cuttings become 
large enough, take those growths that spring from the soil 
(not those on the stem, unless the stock is short), selecting 
those that are short, yiinia and with good foliage. 
Carefully cut away the two lower leaves and insert the 
cuttings at once singly in small “‘sixties.’”” These should be 
well drained and filled with a compost of leaf-mould and 
loam in equal proportions, with sufficient sand added to 
make the whole porous. Immediately after the cuttings are 
put in a thorough soaking should be given to settle the soil 
about them, and also to prevent the foliage from drooping. 
A low pit or frame, with a hot-water pipe round, is an 
excellent place to stand them, maintaining a temperature of 
45deg., and keeping the place closed until the cuttings have 
rooted. If air is admitted by ventilation before the rooting 
process is completed, the foliage will be sure to flag. Ifthe 
gun comes ont brightly, lightly damp the foliage overhead 
with a syringe ; this tends to keep the leaves plump. 
The process of rooting varies considerably. 
varieties make roots ver 
Some 
quickly, while others are very 
slow. Those that strike first should be removed to a cooler 
and more airy position, but safe from frost. The plants 
should be kept close to the glass to obtain all the light 
possible and induce a sturdy habit; unless this is done, 
pesiculady while the days are short, the plants become 
awn and weakly. The plants shonld never suffer 
from lack of water from the time of their insertion as 
cuttings until after they have flowered. At the same time, 
continued saturation must be avoided. 
By the end of March the cuttings will have filled their 
pots with roots, and should be potted into 5in. size, draining 
carefully, and covering the drainage with moss, to keep it 
free. At this potting the compost.should consist of three 
parts good fibrous loam and one part well-decayed leaf- 
mould or spent Hore deepemes, with a 5in. potful of fine 
bone-meal to every barrow-load of soil, thoroughly mixing 
the whole. If the loam is of a very heavy character, a litile 
silyer-sand may be added; but it is advisable not to make 
the soil too light. Press the soil moderately firm, and leave 
a space about din. deep at the top of the pot for water. If 
the plants are watered well a little time before potting, it 
will not be necessary to water them again for a day or so. 
When it is necessary, give a good soaking, using a fine rose 
on the pot in order to avoid displacement of the soil. 
After potting, a cold frame, with the floor covered with 
coal-ashes, is the most suitable place for the plants, but 
still keeping them close to the glass, and also somewhat 
close for a few days, until the roots have started taking 
ossession of the new soil. Afterwards air may be admitted 
reely on warm or sunny days ; in fact, when the weather is 
very mild the lights may with advantage be taken right off. 
Any attempt at coddling will end in leggy plants, with no 
foliage at their base. Towards the end of April the lights 
may be left off the frames entirely, except in very cold 
weather, and by the middle of May the plants may be stood 
outside in an open, sunny position. By the end of May or 
early in June the plants may be transferred to their 
flowering pots. If required for exhibition, Sin. pots will be 
quite large enough ; but if extra large plants are required 
. heat may be turned on to expel 
Chrysanthemum—continued, 
for quantities of cut blossoms or conservatory decoration, 
10in. or even larger-sized pots may be employed. The 
compost at this final potting should consist of three parts 
rich fibrous loam and one part dry horse-droppings, with a 
7in. potful of bone-meal to each large barrow-load of soil; 
or failing bone-meal a similar quantity of Thomson’s Manure 
may be used instead. The drainage of the pots ought to be 
carefully arranged (inverted oyster-shells are first-rate) and 
covered with moss, while a sprinkling of soot will keep ont 
worms for a considerable period. The soil should be rammed 
moderately hard, and must not fill the pot. A space of 2in. 
or 3in. at the top should be allowed for a top-dressing 
later on. 
From this time onwards, the plants will demand constant 
attention in watering, staking, and tying, and ample space 
should be provided for each plant. A very good position for 
them is by the side of a sunny walk, in a single line. By 
haying stakes driven in at intervals, with stont string 
running from each other, the plants may be securely tied 
thereto, and thus prevented from being blown down or 
injured by strong winds, while the sun and light have full 
play upon both sides of the plants, ensuring thorough 
ripening of the wood. Some growers advise giving no 
liquid or other manures until the flower-buds have formed, 
but a little weak liquid manure, or a top-dressing of soot or 
soot-water, certainly improves the health and colour of the 
growth. Immediately the flower-buds are formed, a mulch 
of fibrous loam and decayed manure, in equal proportions, 
will prove highly beneficial, and from the time. of the 
Hower-bud formation until the flowers begin to expand 
frequent applications of diluted liquid manure, or some of 
the prepared chemical manures, will be very serviceable, 
bearing in mind that the roots can only take up or use a 
limited amount of plant-food, and any great excess above 
their requirements is likely to do more harm than good. 
Stopping, bud-taking, &c.,; are comparatively simple” 
matters, and depend a great deal upon the purpose for 
which the plants are grown. If for exhibition blossoms, it 
will be found advisable not to pinch or stop the shoots at all, 
but at each break to select from three to five of the strongest 
and best shoots, and rub ont allthe others. About the middle 
of August, or from then to early in September, these growths 
form buds (termed crown buds), and all except the centre or 
largest bud are pinched out. If these buds form in July or 
very early in August, they are too early for exhibition in 
November ; consequently, they are taken ont, and another 
shoot is made, which produces a ‘‘terminal,’’ or second 
crown bud. : 
Between these crown and terminal buds there is a great 
difference; in many cases the colour is quite distinct on 
the same plant, as may be proved by allowing one shoot to 
produce a crown, and onea terminal bud. For this reason, 
some varieties are best from one, and some from the other. 
In describing the sorts for exhibition, it will be noticed that 
it is stated which is the best bud to choose. If possible, the 
buds should all be secured by the end of August. Very fine 
blossoms are obtained from buds formed early in Séptember, 
but there is always a risk of their not being in time, and 
also _a doubt as to their proving up to the exhibition 
standard. Immediately the buds are formed, it is advisable 
to lightly spray the plants with Bordeaux Mixture to 
prevent Mildew or other fungoid attacks. 
At the end of September or early in October, the plants 
may be placed in a cool, light, airy house, where a little fire 
amp, especially in dull or 
foggy weather, Plenty of ventilation should be given 
whenever the weather is favourable, and any needless 
spilling of water about the house ought to be avoided, 
otherwise it will be apt to cause the flowers to ‘“‘damp.” 
While the blossoms are expanding it will be necessary to 
pull out a few of the petals, as some are almost sure to be 
awkward or out of place, and would, if allowed to remain, 
spoil the symmetry of a blossom. 
When fully developed, an Incurved flower should be deep, 
full in the centre, towards which all the petals should 
incurye, and be also fresh and of good colour. The Japanese 
section should have all their* flowers deep, wide, with good 
petals, and well coloured. The same applies in a lesser 
degree to the Reflexed ; while the Anemone section ought to 
have the centre, or cushion, well developed, free from petals, 
and the outer florets or guard-petals in a well-formed circle 
round the cushion. y 
The dressing of flowers for exhibition is extensively 
practised by Chrysanthemum growers, and consists in the 
