1900 SUPPLEMENT—RECENT INTRODUCTIONS, 
Greenhouse—continued. 
be recommended ; they soon decay if not well looked after, 
and in so doing make’ eaeeeoree places for all manner 
of insect and fungus pests, which are most injurious to 
plants. Shelves or stages made of wooden battens, with 
spaces in between, should never be used, as they allow 
water to run away at once, and by permitting dry air to 
come from below, and to circulate freely amongst the pots, 
cause too rapid evaporation. Thus in hot weather constant 
watering will be necessary, or the plants must be stood in 
saucers, which is not adyisable, as in that case the water 
does not run away at all, and the pot is liable to become 
water-logged, causing the soil to sour. In the case of 
slate covered with loose gravel stones, the stones allow 
water to run freely from the pot, but yet retain it; thus 
continual evaporation takes place, and the air passes up 
amongst the foliage of the plants laden with moisture. This 
is especially the case when they are damped two or three 
times a day. 
In the centre of the house it is usnal to have shelves 
placed in tiers one above the other. These should also be 
made of slate and covered with gravel stones; but it is a 
better plan to have a flat bed raised 6in. above the gronnd. 
In the centre of this tall plants in tubs or large pots may 
be placed; or they may even be planted out, and then 
others not quite so tall arranged next them, the plants 
getting lower towards the edge. This bed should also be 
covered with loose grayel. The paths should either be 
tiled or cemented over. 
The temperature of this house should range from 50deg. 
to 60deg. In all cases it shonld be at least 5deg. lower in 
the night than in the day, both in this and the growing- 
houses. 
When the soil is very heavy and wet, the ground on 
which the Greenhouse is to stand should be raised above 
the rest, so as to ensure perfect drainage. The growing- 
mew also, in such cases, be better raised instead of 
sunk, 
Tue Growine-Housss. Of these there should be at least 
two: one structure may be divided into two parts, and 
sometimes three divisions may be made. The sunk house 
or pit is best, as, not being so exposed, the heat is more 
easily retained. This is a house having a low exterior 
wall abont 1ft. high on which the roof rests, coming down 
nearly to the level of the ground. It is entered by an 
exterior flight of steps, the path in the centre being 34ft. 
below the level of the ground; side shelves are fitted 
similar to those in the Greenhouse, but they may be wider. 
The two divisions should be warm and cool respectively, 
the first having a winter temperature ranging from 55deg. 
to 65deg., and the second from 45deg. to 55deg. In summer 
artificial heat will not be necessary in the cool end, and in 
the warm one only during very damp weather, or for the 
purposes of propagation, when a little bottom-heat may be 
required. The warm pit may be used for growing plants on, 
and for bringing them into blossom quickly, or for gentle 
forcing in the spring. The cool pit will serve for hardening 
off “eben in blossom before shifting to the Greenhonse, as 
well as young ones that are intended to grow outside in 
the summer ; it can also be used asa resting pit. Both the 
pits can be used for propagation. 
It is a good plan in the case of these houses to make 
sections of the roof to lift on hinges, so that when the 
weather is suitable they can easily be propped open and 
the plants shifted without passing up and down through 
the doors. 
Frames. It is very convenient to have a few of these, 
and it is surprising what a number of plants may be grown 
in them with the aid of a little heat. They should vary in 
depth, so as to admit of different-sized plants being grown 
in them, are best bnilt of brick with wooden lights, and 
should face to the south. 
Aspect. Both the Greenhouse and the growing-pits 
should run from north to south; thus the sun will rise on 
one side and set on the other, both sides getting their fair 
share of sunshine, whilst it will be right over the centre at 
mid-day. 
SHapinc. This is an important item in plant-growing. 
It is best effected by means of roller-blinds, having a reel 
and cord at one end by which they can easily be let up and 
down. Fine tiffany is the best material. Wooden blinds 
are also used; these consist of strips l4in. wide, having 
4in. space in between, and bonnd together by cords. They 
&c. 403 
Greenhouse—continued. 
are also made to roll up and down, but reqnire to run on 
supports about lft. above the surface of the glass. 
Permanent shading consisting of washes should never 
be used; it is very injurious to plants to be continually 
shaded on dull days, especially in spring and antumn, when 
maybe there are several dull days in succession. On the 
other hand, blinds require constant attention, as many 
valuable plants are frequently spoilt when in full blossom 
by the careless cultivator going away and leaving the 
blinds up, when during his absence the sun has come ont 
and shone fiercely. Permanent shading may be used for the 
sides of the house, but even there tiffany, hung up by 
means of hooks and rings, and fastened in a like manner 
at the base, is better. These blinds may be replaced in 
winter by blanket ones, which will be of great advantage 
on exceptionally cold nights or in windy weather, for 
keeping the heat in. 
Heratine. See the article under this heading in Vol. II. 
VENTILATION. The art of giving the right amonnt of 
air at the right time can only be acquired after long 
experience. All the houses should be plentifully supplied 
with ventilators, especially the Greenhouse. This shonld 
have lights on hinges along each side of the honse and 
along the whole length of the lantern on each side, and 
wooden ventilators under the shelves, let in the brickwork 
on a level with the pipes, all opening from the inside. 
Plenty of air should be given on every occasion when 
it can be done without lowering the temperature unduly. 
Fresh air is life to plants, but when cold and damp it is 
injurious, and should be excluded. When a cold or strong 
wind is blowing only those ventilators on the opposite side 
from that which is exposed thereto should be opened. 
Bottom air can always be given by means of the ventilators 
in the brickwork, except when the thermometer stands 
below freezing-point, or the wind is very cold. By this 
means the air of the house is kept fresh, whilst by passing 
over the pipes first it is warmed before reaching the plants. 
The same rules apply to the growing-pits, except that 
not quite so much air should be given to many plants 
making growth as to those that have finished flowering or 
are in full blossom, and this shows the necessity of haying 
a warm as well as a cool pit even in summer. Lach pit 
should have ventilators at the top of the roof, and also 
at the sides between the roof and the ground. When the 
nights are cool, but the sun is strong and bright during 
the day, the temperature may be kept up by closing the 
ventilators early and storing the sun heat. 
In the frames air can be given by means of wooden blocks 
notched in stair fashion, so that the lights can be raised 
to various heights when it is not desired to remove them 
altogether. 
Water Tanks. Every Greenhouse should be provided 
with water tanks. These can be let in the ground on a 
level with the floor, and service water laid on; but they 
should also be made to collect all the rain-water from the 
roof, and this should be used in preference to any other. 
It is as well to have a couple of hot-water pipes running 
through the tanks, so that the water may be heated to the 
same temperature as that of the house. Self-registering 
thermometers should be placed in every house, so that 
variations of temperature may be observed. 
GENERAL CunruRAL Hints. As greenhouse plants vary 
so much in their habit and growth, they require different 
methods of treatment and different composts for growing 
in, the various soils for making which should always be 
stacked for some time before using. ; 
Watering requires extreme care. It is almost impossible 
to tell anyone how to water properly, but the cultivator 
who takes a real interest in his plants will soon get to 
know the requirements of each individual, and will water 
it accordingly. On no account should a plant—except in 
special cases—be allowed to become dry. Very often a 
plant will suffer so much damage from being dry for only 
one day that it will not recover during the rest of the year. 
Generally if the pot in which a plant is growing gives 
a hollow ring when tapped it may be said to be dry, but 
this is not always a true test, and one can only tell 
correctly after long experience. Again, care must be 
exercised not to over-water, as quite as much damage can 
be done in that way. ‘The great art is to give a plant 
water just sufficient at the time when it is beginning to 
require it. 
