1900 SuPPLEMENT—RECENT INTRODUCTIONS, &cC. 
MYROSMA (from myron, myrrh, balsam, and osme, 
smell; in allusion to the odour. of the plant). Syn. 
Maranta (in part). Orb. Scitaminee. A genus embracing 
about a dozen species of stove, tuberous-rooted plants, 
closely allied to Maranta; one is found in Madagascar 
and the rest are tropical American. Flowers in axillary 
or terminal, complanate, unilateral spikes; bracts di- 
stichous, imbricated, secund; sepals three, free, equalling 
or rather shorter than the corolla, which has a short tube 
and a epreading limb; lip broad. Leaves mostly radical. 
Stems short, erect. For culture of the species introduced, 
see Maranta. 
M. Lubbersii. The correct name of Stromanthe Lubbersiana. 
M. madagascariense (Madagascar). jl. greenish-white, in 
dense, unilateral spikes, consisting of two close rows; peduncles 
3in. to 4in. long, dichotomously forked. J. distichous, half-a- 
dozen to a stem, oblong-lanceolate, lft. to 14ft. long; petioles 
lift. to 14ft. long. tree Soe before 1872. Syn. Phrynium 
unilaterale (Ref. B., t. 312). 
M. nanum (dwarf). ji. white, small, disposed in dense 
spikes. J. very hairy, variegated down the midrib with a 
longitudinal yellowish band. Brazil (?), 1894. A dwarf species. 
M. cannefolium (SYN. Calathea Myrosma, of Lindley) has also 
been introduced. 
MYRSINE. Including Heberdenia. Bentham and 
Hooker inelude Suttonia (which see) hereunder, M. Heber- 
denia (Syns. Ardisia excelsa, Heberdenia eucelsa) has been 
introduced, but is not in general cultivation. 
M. Urvillei (Urville’s). The correct name of Suttonia 
australis. 
MYRSTIPHYLLUM. A synonym of Psychotria 
(which see). 
MYRTUS. Several species formerly included here- 
under are now referred to Eugenia. The following 
changes of nomenclature are based on the “Index 
Kewensis.”’ 
M. Cheken,. The correct name is Eugenia Chequen. 
M. fragrans. The correct name is Eugenia fragrans. 
M. Luma (of Molina). The correct name is Eugenia apiculata. 
M. orbiculata is synonymous with Eugenia cotinifolia. 
M. Pimenta (Pimenta). A synonym of Pimenta oficinalis. 
M. tomentosa is synonymous with Rhodomyrtus tomentosus. 
MYSTACIDIUM (from mustax, mustakos, a mous- 
tache, and eidos, resemblance; in allusion to the pointed 
vrolongation of the lip), Syn. Aéranthus (of Reichen- 
bach, jun.). Op. Orchidew. A genus comprising about 
a score species of stove, epiphytal, not pseudo-bulbous 
Orchids, natives of tropical and South Africa. Flowers 
usually small, racemose; sepals and petals nearly equal, 
free, spreading; lin affixed to the base of the column, 
produced in a long, slender spur, the lateral lobes some- 
times ovate, erect, sometimes nearly obsolete, the middle 
“one erect or spreading, often ovate, undivided; pollen 
masses two; racemes axillary, often short. Leaves di- 
stichons, usually few, coriaceous, spreading. Stems leafy, 
rigid. Only two species are at all well-known in gardens. 
They thrive either on blocks or in baskets, in a cool 
house, and will succeed under conditions similar to those 
which suit Angrecum falcatum. 
M. Curnowianum (Curnow’s). /l. yellowish-white ; sepals and 
petals ligulate, acute; lip cuneate-obovate, retuse, with a 
median apiculus; spur filiform, five times as long as the lip. 
i. ligulate, emarginate, fleshy, dark, dull green, rather rough. 
Madagascar, 1883. Syn. Aéranthus Curnowianus. 
M. filicorne (thread-horned). . white, lin. in diameter, 
numerous; sepals, petals, and lip lanceolate, acute; spur 
slender, 2in. long or more. 7. narrow-oblong, 2in. to 5in. long, 
about 4in. broad, obtusely two-lobed at apex. Natal, 1887. 
A pretty, free-flowering, Angrecum-like Orchid, of tufted 
habit. (G. C. ser. iii., vol. ii., p. 135.) 
M. dolabriforme, a species of botanical interest, is in the Kew 
Collection, M. Hariotianum has also been introduced, but is 
of no horticultural value. 
MYTILASPIS POMORUM. Another name for 
the Oyster-shell Bark Lonse, or Apple Mussel Scale 
(which see). 
MYTILASPIS VITIS. See Vine Scale Insects. 
MYZUS PERSICZ. See Peach—Insect Pests. 
MYZUS RIBIS (CURRANT APHIS). ‘See 
Aphides. 
541 
NZGELIA. The Hybrid Negelias now in commerce, 
with their richly-coloured, velvet-like foliage and bright- 
coloured, bell-shaped flowers, are far and away superior to 
the old kinds. Some of the best will be found enumerated 
below. A succession of these decorative plants may be 
had by planting in April, May, and June. 
ABOMEY, tube rose; limb white, spotted with rose; leaves brown, 
prettily variegated. ACHIMENOIDES, tube yellowish-rose out- 
side, yellow dotted rose within; lobes light rose. AMABILIS, 
pure white, with blotched lip; a beautiful hybrid. BrRriocHer, 
yellowish, pink-spotted ; tube rose. COLOMBINE, lemon-yellow. 
HYACINTHINA, white or pink; floriferous. LEICHTLINI, yellow, 
suffused with rose at top. MASSENET, carmine and chrome- 
yellow. PRINCE DE BULGARIE, tube orange; limb and inside of 
throat deep yellow, rose-spotted. SAPPHO, white, tinged rose, 
with canary-yellow throat. Srrius, tube carmine-red, yellow 
outside; limb yellow, spotted with rose. 
NZNIA TYPICA. See Vine Moths. 
NAGETA. Included under Podocarpus (which see). 
NAGELIA. Included under Cotoneaster (which see), 
NAIL-GALLS. See Tilia—Insects. 
NAILWORT. See Paronychia. 
NAPA DIOICA. The correct name of Sida 
Napza (which see). 
NAPOLEONA. Four species are now referred to 
this genus. To those described on p. 409, Vol. II., the 
following should be added: 
N. imperialis cuspidata (cuspidate). This differs from the 
better-known, typical N. imperialis in its larger flowers, which 
are cream-coloured with a crimson centre, regularly five- 
angled, with straight sides (not five-lobed as in N. imperialis); 
the leaves are much larger, being 8in. to 10in. long and 4in, 
to 5in. broad. 1886. (G. C. 1886, xxv., p. 657, f. 147 B, under 
name of NV. cuspidata.) 
N. Miersii (Miers’). /l., corolla yellowish outside, pink on the 
ribs, orbicular, about forty-toothed and ribbed; within three- 
coloured, the outer zone yellowish, the next pink, and the 
innermost white; corona white, circled with pink at base. 
October. J. ovate-oblong, obtuse, cuspidate, rounded or 
cuneate at base. Western tropical Africa, 1886. (B. M. 7199.) 
Syn. N. Whitsieldii. 
N. Whitfieldii (Whitfield’s). A synonym of NV. Miersii. 
NAPOLEON’S WEEPING WILLOW. 
Salix babylonica Napoleona. 
NARCISSUS. Including also Philogyne, Queltia, 
Schizanthes, and Tros. Despite the fact that these bulbs are 
amongst the easiest to cultivate, yet the failures recorded 
are very numerous, more especially with amateurs. One 
of the chief causes is late planting, irrespective of 
variety. There are some varieties which may be planted 
in November, or even later, without any appreciable 
falling off in quantity or quality of blossom being 
noticeable; while there are others—the Poeticus section, 
for instance—that can hardly be planted or replanted too 
early. In fact, the best results with these are obtain- 
able when the bulbs are inserted by the end of July. 
To those unacquainted with the root-action of the 
different varieties, this may appear unduly early, and 
calculated to interfere with the ordinary summer routine 
work, as well as with the border occupants; but it is an 
important factor in the successful growth of the bulbs. 
The majority of Bed and Border Narcissi are, however, 
better planted during August and early September at the 
latest, and only on an emergency should the work be 
deferred later. 
Again, the depth at which Narcissi should be planted 
may not seem an important detail, yet it is one, and it 
is, moreover, not as often considered as it should be. The 
actual depth will vary with the size of the bulb; but a 
very good rule-of-thumb calculation is that suggested by 
Mr. William Barr—namely, that all WNarcissi bulbs 
should be covered with soil once-and-a-half their 
own depth, measuring from the collar of the neck to 
the actual base. On no account should the bulbs come 
in contact with crude manure, or they will assuredly 
be injured. Where manure is rendered necessary by 
the poorness of the soil at the time of planting, it 
should be well rotted, and placed at such a depth 
that the roots of the bulbs do not run into it. Many 
cultivators prefer, however, to utilise portions of the 
garden for Narcissi culture which have been enriched for 
a previous crop. This is very desirable in sandy. soils. 
Cultivators should also take care that the bulbs rest upon 
See 
