1900 SUPPLEMENT—RECENT INTRODUCTIONS, &C. 573 
Orchid Hybridisation—continued. 
such cases as Cypripediums, Phains, and others of this 
section; but there. are other cases—say where the plants 
require a season of rest—in which it would be 
exceedingly undesirable to sow seed, for it would mean 
the sacrifice of the old plant if the requirements of the 
seedlings are to be supplied. 
As there are other means of raising plants from seed, 
it is not advisable to sow Cattleyas, and their allies, or 
Dendrobinms on the plants of their respective genera. 
Another method of sowing seed is to procure a piece 
of pitch-pine, bruise it well, and either suspend it in 
a moist position as a raft or place small pieces in pans, 
first soaking the material in water, and then sowing 
the seed while wet. Rough sawn pieces of white deal, 
such as would be cut from the sawing asunder of a 
seaffold-pole, is a most suitable surface on which to sow 
the seed; but for this system it is necessary that the 
conditions should be fairly hot and a high state of 
humidity be retained at all times. The blocks should 
be fitted into pans and suspended near the roof-glass. 
One of the best systems we have found for the raising 
of Cattleya seedlings is to fill shallow pans about one- 
third their depth with clean, broken crocks, filling in the 
remaining portion with the coarse Fern roots left when 
picking the peat for potting, broken small and mixed 
with a little charcoal. This should be thoroughly wetted 
before the seeds are sown. Fig. 608 represents a pan 
of this description with Cattleya seedlings two months 
from the sowing of seed. Cocoa-nut fibre is favoured by 
some as a suitable surface on which to sow the seeds, 
but we find that it commences to decay too early, and 
the surface has a tendency to become sour, although we 
have no donbt that shut up in a propagating-case it 
would answer the purpose admirably. Whichever system 
is adopted, it is absolutely necessary that the surface 
should be thoroughly wet before commencing to sow 
the seeds ; for if sown on a dry surface, they are so 
light that they quickly become floated, and are thus 
easily washed from their position to destruction. 
The period that elapses between the sowing and 
germination of the seeds varies considerably. Sometimes 
indications of the vitality of the seed may be observed 
in from seven to ten days. In other cases we have 
Fig, 609. ORCHID SEEDLINGS (Six Months). 
known the seed to come up after having-been sown two 
years; cases also frequently occur in which the first 
batch of the seed has made its germination qnickly, 
while others sown at the same time, even on the same 
receptacle, will continue to make their appearance for 
two or three years afterwards. The treatment of the 
seed from the time of sowing up to the rooting period 
Orchid Hybridisation—continued. 
of the plants that have germinated therefrom is an 
operation that requires considerable care and judgment. 
The principal item, of course, is the watering. To dip 
the tiny, dust-like germs of seed when in a dry state 
would result in floating the seeds from off the surface 
of the material on which they had been sown. To 
water carelessly, even from the finest rose on the water- 
can, quickly displaces the growing seedlings, and they 
are thus washed over the sides of the pots and are lost. 
It is therefore necessary to take precautionary measures 
to prevent this, and the besf means of overcoming the 
difficulty is to use a small spray diffuser, similar to those 
FiG. 610. ORCHID SEEDLINGS (Two Years) 
found in florists’ shops ; the water is forced out in a fine 
mist-like spray by means of a small air pump, which is 
attached. This we find answers the purpose admirably. 
The periods between sprayings will vary according to 
the outside conditions of the atmosphere. In bright, 
warm weather the seedlings will require damping twice 
a day; but in dull, cool weather probably once or twice 
a week will be sufficient. This is best judged by the 
operator. Care must also be observed to prevent the small 
seedlings from becoming dry, especially if these are 
hong in a light position near the roof-glass. Seedlings, 
if once allowed to become dry, shrivel; the tiny plants 
rarely regain their normal condition, and gradually dwindle 
and die. Excess in either case must be avoided. 
Porrinc Srppiinas. The best time at which to 
remoye the seedlings is just at the period after which 
the first or seed-leaf has reached maturity, and when the 
miniature root makes its appearance. We advocate that 
the sooner the plants can be induced to become established 
in their independent pots the better. The accompanying 
illustration (Fig. 609) will give a fair indication of the 
condition of the plants when they may be safely handled, 
provided that the roots are in an active condition, and the 
plants, as far as growth js concerned, are in a dormant 
condition, We would prefer their being potted before the 
stage indicated in the illustration, so that the roots shown 
might in the meantime have become established in the 
potting compost; but in a young stage they are very 
tender subjects to handle, and partienlar care is required 
lest they become injured in the operator's hands during 
transplanting. We advise those not familiar with the 
treatment of seedling Orchids to defer potting up the 
plants until they are sufficiently large to be conveniently 
handled. The size of the pots used depends on the 
