644 
Room Plants—continued. 
Of Ferns, the kinds ayailable for use as pot-plants for 
indoor decoration are fairly numerous, and include Pteris 
cretica albo-lineata, P. quadrita argyrea (P. argyrea of 
some), P. serrulata; Todea barbara ; Asplenium bulbiferwm, 
A. b. Fabianum, A. b. lawum, A. flaccidum, and A. Tricho- 
manes; Pellexa (Platyloma) rotundifolia; Cyrtomium 
falcatum and its varieties Fortunei and caryotidewm; 
Scolopendrium vulgare (Common Hartstongue); Lomaria 
Spicant; and Polypodium vulgare cambricum. 
For use as basket plants, Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums ; 
Campanula isophylla, C. % alba, and C. fragilis; 
_ Lysimachia Nummularia (Creeping Jenny) and its 
variegated form; Ivies of sorts, but especially the 
variegated kinds ; variegated Stonecrops (Sedum) ; Zebrina 
pendula (more familiarly known as T'radescantia zebrina) : 
the common Musk ; Isolepis gracilis ; Saxifraga sarmentosa ; 
Kenilworth Ivy (Linaria Cymbalaria) ; Othonna crassifolia ; 
Nierembergia gracilis; Tropxolum polyphyllum ; and such 
Ferns as Asplenium caudatum and longissimum ; 
Davallia retusa; Nephrolepis exaltata, N. acuta and N. 
pluma; and Woodwardia radicans, are a few good subjects. 
ROOT-PRUNING. When fruit trees are making 
rampant growth and bearing little or no fruit, the 
cultivator adopts a judicious system of Root-pruning to 
check excessive growth, and to throw the trees into a 
frnuit-bearing condition. As to the method of procedure, no 
hard-and-fast rule can be laid down, as the size of the 
tree and other conditions must be considered. If a tree 
is large, and has not been disturbed at the roots for many 
years, it is advisable to Root-prune only one side at a 
time. If it were done all round at once the check given 
would be so severe that death would result, or, at any 
rate, very serious injury for a number of years. In dealing 
with a large tree, a deep trench should be dug, about 
as far from the stem as the branches extend in the case of 
standards or half-standards, and about 8ft. to 12ft. away 
from the stem or trunk of trained trees, according to 
their size. The trench ought to be sufficiently deep to 
enable the operator to cut through all roots. Afterwards, 
with a fork, the soil shonld be worked out from amongst 
the roots towards the trunk, cutting through all roots 
that strike directly downwards into the sub-soil. All 
other roots should be carefully preserved and kept moist. 
Having bared all the roots nearly to the trunk, all 
those badly injured should be cut back, and then 
evenly laid in the soil again, and if fresh soil can be added 
so much the better. The soil about the roots should be 
firmly trodden, thus encouraging fibrous roots near the 
surface. In two years the other side of the tree or trees 
may be treated in a similar manner. 
Smaller trees may be lifted bodily, all the long, 
straggling roots cut back, and replanted, thus effectually 
checking superabundant growth. Im nurseries where 
specimen trees are grown for sale, they are lifted and 
Root-pruned every two years, to keep them movable with 
good balls of earth attached to the roots. The great 
point in successfully Root-pruning large or small trees, 
is to commence operations far enough away from the 
trunk to ensure a good quantity of uninjured roots for 
laying in the soil. 
ROOTS. The formation of good fibrous Roots is 
essential for the production of healthy plants, flowers, 
and fruit. To attain this object it is requisite that a 
suitable medium for root-growth should be obtained. 
With the exception of Bog Plants, drainage for surplus 
moisture to pass away is absolutely necessary, otherwise 
the stagnant water will destroy all the finer and most 
valuable Roots. Soil, again, must be suited to the 
requirements of the plants. Rhododendrons, Ericas, 
and plants of that class, for example, quickly become 
unhealthy when the Roots come in contact with lime. 
Fruit-producing trees, on the other hand, must haye 
lime to form and develop their crops, and if it is not 
present naturally, it must be applied to the Roots by 
the cultivator. Some plants need a loose soil which 
the Roots can easily penetrate for their growth; 
while others, especially the Vine, Fig, and, in fact, most 
frnit trees, give the finest results when the rooting 
medium is very firm, which causes the production of a 
mass of fibrous Roots, followed by short-jointed, sturdy 
wood, certain to bear satisfactory crops of fruit. On the 
other hand, if the soil were loose and easily perforated 
by the Roots, these would be long, thick, practically 
THE DICTIONARY OF GARDENING, 
Roots—continued. 
devoid of fibre, and the growth of the wood long- 
jointed, sappy, and unfrnitful. In those orchards where , 
the finest and heaviest crops of frnit are produced, 
every effort is made to encourage the Roots to the surface 
by feeding, and therefore it is very unwise to mutilate 
the Roots by surface-digging. In fact, with some plants, 
such as Raspberries, it is most injurious, as the best 
Roots are thus destroyed. Every year the pernicions 
system of digging amongst trees and shrubs is answerable 
for ill-health and deaths, and what should be the most 
beautiful part of the garden is rendered more or less 
unsightly by dead and dying portions of the shrubbery 
through Root-mntilation. In the remoyal of plants and 
in replanting, as little damage as possible should be done 
to the Roots. From the time of lifting until replanted, 
the Roots should be kept moist: if they are allowed to 
become dry during the interval, a serious check to the 
trees or plants will follow. 
ROSA. In Vol. III. the more injurious Fungi were dealt 
with at considerable length, and little need be added to 
the information there given. For the very common Mildew 
(Sphxrotheca pannosa), sulphur in some form is still the 
best fungicide for staying the progress of the disease. 
Powdered sulphur has long been employed by gardeners, 
and it is fairly effectual. Far better results are, how- 
ever, obtainable by using it in combination with quicklime 
(three parts of flowers of snlphur and one part of powdered 
quicklime). Many rosarians, however, prefer to either 
the clear preparation liver of sulphur in solntion (loz. 
to 3 gallons of water). (See Fungicides.) For the Orange 
Rust (Phragmidium subcorticatum) weak Bordeaux Mix- 
ture should be used. This shonld be in combination with 
the collection and burning of all fallen leaves in autumn 
and the employment of copper sulphate solution (loz. 
copper sulphate to 2 gallons of water) in early April. 
This latter is also effectual in the case of the ‘‘Spot” 
Fungi prevalent. in many places. 
In respect of Mildew, it may be stated that the Hybrid 
Perpetuals as a section are far more liable to attack than 
are the Teas, the Hybrid Teas, and the Noisettes. This 
point does not as often receive attention when the gar- 
dener is making a selection as it might. 
For “Canker,” which, as in the case of Apple-Tree 
Canker, is characterised by the splitting of the bark, the 
remedies under Canker may be found of use. 
INSECTS AND OTHER ANIMAL PrEsts. As in the case of 
Fungi, little by way of addition is called for here. 
Broadly it may be stated that outside for insects which 
chew, like the Sawflies and certain Moth Caterpillars, 
feeding exposed, there is nothing so good as _ hellebore, 
either as a powder or in solution, or a solution of Paris 
Green (see Insecticides). Both are, however, virulent 
poisons, and must be carefully kept. For Aphides (see 
Aphides) and other pests which suck, Kerosene Emulsion, 
soft-soap solution, or even hot water, may be ‘tried. 
Under glass the gardener must largely rely upon syringing 
and famigation to keep pests in check, together with, in 
the case of Scale, the application of Kerosene Emulsion by 
means of a sponge or a brush. One of the most trouble- 
some of all pests falling under this heading is a species 
of Eelworm at the roots of pot Roses. The Eelworm is 
readily introduced with the potting soil. See Eelworms 
in present Volame, and Nematoid Worms in Vol. IL., 
for remedies and means of prevention. 
To the species and varieties described on pp. 319-25, 
Vol. III., the following should be added. The changes in 
nomenclature are based on the ‘‘ Index Kewensis.” 
R. acicularis nipponicus (Nippon). /. rich rose, solitary, 
ljin. across, borne on slender peduncles. J. pale green. 
Branches slender. Japan, 1899. An erect bush. (B. M. 7646.) 
R. alpina pyrenaica (Pyrenese). A spiny variety with rose- 
pink flowers and very long fruits. 
R. anemonefiora (Anemone-flowered). 
R. indica anemoneeflora. 
R. anserinzfolia. The correct name is R. Begyeriana. 
R. Beggeriana (Begger’s). The correct name of R. anserine- 
folia. There are two varieties: nigrescens and Schrenki. 
R. blanda Manettii (Manetti’s). ”. of a beautiful clear rose, 
semi-double, very elegant. Lombardy, about 1820. R. Mendleri 
is another form of R. blanda. 
R. borbonica, or Bourbonia. 
R. indica. 
The correct name of 
Bourbon Rose. See under 
