Trees and Shrubs—continued. 
distances, the roots shonld always be protected from dry, 
parching winds by means of mats, tiffany, hay, or any 
such material. Holes for their reception should have 
been previously prepared, and be larger than the ball of 
Fic, 724. 
CLETHURA ALNIPOLIA, 
earth attached to the roots, which latter should be spread 
out carefully in all directions, so that they will be in a 
position to take up nourishment from all sides; besides, 
by fixing the Trees more securely in the soil, they are 
better able to withstand boisterous winds. The soil at 
the base shonld be loosened, and the distance between 
the Trees will depend on the size, kind, and@object for 
which they are intended. It sometimes happens that the 
ordinary soil of the garden is not snited to certain kinds 
of Shrubs, in which case the indifferent soil should be 
taken away and replaced by some favourable to the well- 
being of the subjects it is intended to plant. The 
common mistake of huddling the roots up together 
should be avoided, and the disadvantages of very deep 
planting cannot be too strongly condemned. Manure in 
any shape shonld never be placed in immediate contact 
with the roots; as it will do more harm than good; it 
should be incorporated with the soil. 
The importance of regular transplanting Trees in a young 
state, especially such as belong to the Fir tribe, does not 
seem to be sufficiently understood, or is not carried ont 
to the extent it should be. It frequently happens that 
Trees get too big or bulky for certain positions, and it 
becomes necessary to lift some of them, in order to give 
those that are left more room to develop. If trans- 
planting has note been properly attended to in the early 
stages, the chance of successfully moving them is con- 
siderably minimised unless extra care is taken in the 
operation. 
Trees that are ‘‘mop-headed,” or top-heavy, should be 
supported by stakes and securely tied immediately 
planting is completed, so as to prevent them from being 
blown over in windy weather. It is wise, especially if 
planting be done in the spring, to give a good watering 
to consolidate the soil about the roots, and if water is 
applied to the foliage by means of a garden-engine or 
a syringe, the Trees will be greatly assisted in making 
fresh roots. In the case of Trees that are impatient of 
disturbance at the root, it is an excellent plan to mulch 
after transplanting with decaying leaves, light litter, &c. ; 
these not only protect the ground from frost, but prevent 
the escape of heat and moisture. 
Shrubs grown in pots are not a success, as a rule, for 
the reason that the roots are matted together throngh 
1900 SUPPLEMENT—RECENT INTRODUCTIONS, &C. 
711 
Trees and Shrubs—continuwed. 
too close confinement. We have noticed how much more 
vigorous are Shrubs lifted from the open than those turned 
out of pots, except in the case of delicate kinds that 
need protection in early life; but such as these should 
never be planted in the open air unless the 
situation is peculiarly favourable. Planting from 
pots may be carried out at almost any season, 
but that is the only advantage, and this is not 
a practice for general recommendation. 
PRUNING. This is an all-important subject, yet 
one unfortunately both little understood and neg- 
lected. To properly prune the various Trees 
and Shrubs several points must be considered, 
such as habit, health, and purpose for which 
they are intended ; also if the flowers are pro- 
duced on the previous or current year’s growth. 
Site and soil are also important. 
In borders that are planted with mixed Shrabs 
pruning is essential to keep the too vigorous 
growth within bounds, and to both protect and 
encourage weaker kinds. The shrubbery border 
should be examined at least twice a year, and 
not allowed to remain unattended for protracted 
periods. 
In pruning flowering Shrubs the object should 
be to improve their general appearance and to 
encourage greater freedom in blossom. ‘To 
accomplish the latter, one must sometimes sacri- 
fice growth, especially if the Shrubs have been 
neglected in the early stages, as, like fruit 
trees, they should be carefully attended to 
whilst young, when it is easy to lay in a good 
foundation. Old worn-out, sickly, and useless 
wood shonld be removed, and young vigorous 
shoots encouraged. 
The subject may very well be discussed under 
two heads: (1) spring praning, and (2) summer 
pruning. The point that troubles many lovers 
of hardy Shrubs is to distinguish between the 
two sections. Roughly speaking, Shrubs whose flowers 
are produced in winter or spring should be pruned im- 
mediately the flowers are oyer, so that they may be 
encouraged to make new wood early and thus become 
matured before winter. 
The charming Winter Sweet (Chimonanthus fragrans) 
is a typical example of a winter-flowering Shrub. In 
February the flowering wood shonld be eut back to an 
eye of the old wood, and the worn-out growths remoyed 
altogether. Garrya elliptica should be pruned in early 
spring, the object being to encourage vigorous growths, 
which, if properly ripened, will flower freely. Of Honey- 
suckles, Lonicera fragrantissima and L. Standishii should 
have their old wood thinned out in March. The Winter 
Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) should be attended to 
abont the same time, and if the plant be growing against 
a wall the main shoots should be secured thereto, and 
the smaller growths allowed freedom: its effect when in 
blossom is much prettier than when all the shoots are 
nailed to the wall. 
Portugal Laurels are best pruned in April, and the 
Holly in March or Angust, as there is time for the 
wounds to heal before growth ceases. With Forsythia 
suspensa the weak growths should be cut away, and the 
strong shoots shortened as soon as the blossoming 
period is over, as shoots 6ft. in length will result, and 
carry flowers freely the following spring. The evergreen 
Crategus Pyracantha should have its weak growths 
thinned out in early spring, and vigorous growths 
from the base laid in to take the place of the old shoots. 
Clusters of berries will thus be borne at the bottom, as 
well as at the top of the plant. In the early summer 
the oyererowded shoots of Olearia Haastii should be 
thinned out, and Mahonias (Barberries) may be treated 
in the same way at the same time. Rhododendrons do 
not as a rule require much pruning beyond a thinning 
ont of the overcrowded delicate shoots after flowering 
is oyer. The seed-pods should always be removed unless 
seed is required. 
As the flowers of Cydonia japonica are borne on short 
spurs along the old wood in March and April, proning 
must be done when necessary in the last-named month, 
and only the yery old wood shonld be taken away, as a 
| too free use of the knife with this early-flowering Shrub 
sa 
ond 
