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London ; but, latterly, we have had a better instruction, and the 

 Thames mud is accredited as the source. Putting such statements on 

 one side, what is likely to be the truth ? All the world over, waste 

 fats occur, and are collected. The candle, which has now yielded to 

 the advance of gas and petroleum, used to absorb most of these ; but 

 now, the exigencies of a butter-requiring public must be supplied in 

 some form. If it be true that we are ignorant of the precise nature of 

 many of our beverages, it certainly is true on this butter question. I 

 have here a sample of butterine. The appearance recommends it ; its 

 colour is delicate ; its spreads smoothly ; and melts lightly in the 

 mouth ; is nearly tasteless. But its odour is scarcely identical with 

 that of true butter. Now it must not be supposed that so nearly a 

 perfect imitation of butter is the result of any crude process, such as 

 the admixture of beef or mutton suet, and simply a melting and 

 colouring to pattern. It is more than possible that the original fat from 

 which this is composed was a waste fat in some repugnant form, 

 clarified again and again by jets of steam and filtration ; the low 

 melting point being arrived at by the judicious admixture with it of an 

 exact proportion of olein, obtained from lard ; and the colouring the 

 same as that used in most dairies ; the mass being eventually beaten 

 up with rich milk. The one thing requisite to complete it is wanting 

 — that delicate odour characteristic of real fresh butter. 



I have found no adulteration in the low qualities of salt butter other 

 than an excess of water, and the evil odour acquired by age ; but 

 there is no doubt that substances of this nature enter largely into the 

 composition of those highly-prized fresh butters demanded at this 

 time of the year, when dwellers in cities expect the fields to be green 

 and the cows feeding on the fragrant grass of the meadow land, while 

 they are dry and in the cattle yard. Many cleverly-constructed 

 compounds, chemically put together, have found their way into the 

 market ; and, as it will be noticed that the butterine melts at a point 

 nearly identical with that of butter, to the analyst butter has been a 

 sore trial. He knew from its many physical characteristics, it was not, 

 could not, be butter ; but the enquiring mind of the chemist has 

 brought to perfection a process by which this impostor may be con- 

 victed among others of a like nature. And yet it is only fair to state, 

 considered purely as nutriment, this substance might and should have 

 its honest place amongst us at its true and honest price. The fat the 

 candle does not now burn would be burned with revenue in the human 



