118 CHANNEL ISLANDS OF CALIFORNIA 



diminutive harbors face the southwest. The cliffs 

 are extremely precipitous. 



The stretch of road remaining is interesting for it 

 plunges into the centre of the island again, ascending 

 the hills, passing through groves of dwarf oak or by 

 vast stretches of cactus, to climb the mountain slopes, 

 suddenly coming to the divide, a thousand feet above 

 the isthmus, with its crescent-shaped beach, its pro- 

 spective town, Cabrillo, its groves of eucalyptus and 

 palm. Here the driver has a fine descending road on 

 which to entertain the lovers of fast driving if they 

 desire it. It so happens that all the passengers wish 

 to be thus entertained; to say that he responds is 

 putting it mildly, and the fine team — changed at 

 Middle Ranch — gallops down the safe road. The skill 

 of the driver, the manner in which he "lets them out," 

 and sends the six horses around seemingly impossible 

 curves is a delight to the lover of coaching. Tobog- 

 ganing cannot be had at Santa Catalina; but in this 

 stage ride you have a substitute, and the ride down 

 either end will linger long in the memory as a new 

 and delightful experience. 



The Isthmus is the site of the largest ancient Indian 

 town on the island. It is a vast kitchen-midden, and 

 the houses and stables are built on mounds of abalone 

 shells. Here tons of stone implements have been dug 

 up and taken to the British Museum and other museums 

 of Europe and America. The coach road extends five 

 miles up the west end to Howland's. If arranged 

 for, one may return by launch, which affords a view 

 of the island along its attractive coast, and enables 

 one to see from the water the coach road over which 

 he has passed. 



